Soldering leaded lights

[Peter Taylor]

An unusual question -

The soldered joints in the two leaded light panels in my front door have broken in places and it's getting worse. I need to re-solder the joints. Anyone got any tips or can point me to helpful sites?

Some questions going through my mind -

Should I take the panels out and lay them flat? Can I do it with an electric soldering iron? What sort of solder - plumbers or flux core? Will the heat damage the glass? How can I reinforce the panels? Should I do a course at the adult education centre? :)

Any advice welcome, thanks Peter

[David W.E. Roberts]

Look for stained glass hobbyist sites. Alternative to taking lights out could be to remove the door and lay it flat whilst repairing - you might do more damage if you try to remove the leaded lights from the door. Not a recommendation, just a thought :-)

HTH Dave R

[The Natural Philosopher]

Funny you should say that.

I have some and need to replace some cracked panes.

Carpenters say its just a matter of a big soldering iron. I think you can even use an acid flux and lead (not even solder) if you get it hot enough with a torch, but cracked glass is a problem.

Spldering is used by plumbers to joint lead: A trip to eh local builders merchants should net ytou the right materials.

I'd probably say the 'solder gun' is the easiest thing to use.

I haven't tried it (yet) myself.

I will probably use large iron,'fluixite' and lead composition soldeer of the plumber flavour.

No need, but suit yourself

Yes, but it needs to have a BIG tip and/or be powerful.

I am betting on plumbers. Sticks if possible. Don't use resin core.

May do if you use a blow lamp, nevertheless my panes were originally made with a small oxcy-acetylene torch...

Do you need to?

If you really do my french wondows are done this way.

Small tails of copper wire are slodred to teh panels at stratig intervals, and simply tied round and twisted to a bar of 1/4" steel welded across the frame.

Not unless there is some crumpet also attending.

[N. Thornton]

they must be laying flat, yes. I like the suggestion to take the door off better.

yes, a 100w one. Certainly not a 25 watter tho.

it was soldered in originally.

as suggested, thin iron bar and copper wire.

no. practice with a bit of scrap first.

dont use a torch.

wont work, not nearly enough output. You need 100w continuous, not

100w for 12 seconds.

yup.

Regards, NT

[Alan]

In message , N. Thornton wrote

For some blow torches you can obtain a large soldering iron bit. This may be a better bet as you will probably need a large wattage electrical soldering in order to heat such a large mass of lead/solder. Heat up the bit, turn off the flame and solder quickly.

[Peter Taylor]

Now why didn't I think of that? Great idea thanks Peter

[Peter Taylor]

Thanks N - I've saved this message. Will be having a go at this soon - I've found a big old soldering iron in my great granddad's toolbox up in the loft. I reckon I could heat it on the gas hob OK (when the missus is out of course!). And I've already got a few sticks of plumber's solder and a tin of flux so I'm all set! Peter

[N. Thornton]

Hi Peter. Those kind of irons are a fair bit harder to use. electric irons were a real advance. If you must use an old passive iron I'd suggest reading up on the technique first, as its not the same as with electric ones. New 100 watters arent expensive, 20 or 30 quid.

Regards, NT