Small plumbing emergency

[Jon Parker]

Recently changed the bath taps for a new set, and now the hot feed pipe is leaking slowly from the joint where the pipe bolts onto the tap.

I've turned off the relevant gatevalve to the hot water and left the leaking tap turned on and wrapped a towel round it for now.

I wish to fit a shut-off (1.4 turn of a screwdriver type) to this pipe so I can isolate it whilst still being able to use the rest of the system.

This looks too simple to be true, are they any good? Is it just a case of cutting the pipe and slipping this on?

From this newly fitted shut-off I was then going to get flexi hoses for ease of connection.

Thoughts?

I've never fitted a shut off before, or cut a pipe. I'm a keen amateur I suppose with no plumbing experience but generally okay with DIY.

Thanks Jon

[JimK]

Is it a combi boiler making the hw?

If so I'd try remaking the leaky union before starting surgery?

With a combi you can just turn the mains off and drain down in 5 mins from the kitchen tap say, no hot water cylinder full or feed/expansion tanks to deal with... Who knows if you are lucky and get a seal next time you may never need the iso valve...

Jim K

[Jon Parker]

Or even this?

Although it does say cold water only. What makes it unsuitable for hot water?

Jon

[Jon Parker]

Regards Jon

[Dave Liquorice]

Did you use a new fibre washer? You might get away with just nipping the nut up a bit more.

Unless it is designed to be a "slip" fitting then no. You will have to remove a short section of pipe and have enough "give" in the pipework to get the pipe ends out of line to shove it onto the end of one. Then the pipe ends need to move apart enough to get the other end into the fitting and then back together to fit.

[Tricky Dicky]

You will probably find all you need to do is replace the fibre washer in th e tap connector to stop your leak. The first cut off valve you show is desi gned for plastic pipe. The second fitting will cope with hot water the prob lem with it is that the flexible portion is narrower and is more suitable f or cold taps which are usually directly connected to the rising main thus u nder mains pressure. Pressure and volume of flow in the hot water system is dependant on the head of water you have in your cold water tank. To give a cceptable flow hot water taps normally have 22mm supply pipes whereas the c old water tap wil have a 15mm supply. If you have 22mm copper supply to you r tap and you wish to isolate the tap then the type you need is the one sho wn at the top a full bore type that does not present any constriction to fl ow.

Richard

[Tim Watts]

JG is pretty good and if I had to I would use their stuff (I have, for temporary plumbing).

But can you manage an old fashioned compression joint and use a solid good quality 1/4 isolator (eg Peglar)?

[Tim Watts]

Tip: You can shorten the links:

Now:

has more data...

Basically, as the temp goes up, the max working pressure goes down. You will generally find a good quality hose will handle HW temps (say

50-60C) at typical mains pressures (5-7 bar).

But it's best to buy a known brand and consult the manufacturer's pages to be sure...

[John Rumm]

Actually speedfit fittings work fine on plastic and copper pipes.

[John Rumm]

Pretty much, however you will need to cut the copper with a pipe slice and not a hacksaw since the fitting has a rubber o-ring that requires the edge of the pipe to be nice and smooth and burr free. You will also likely need to make two cuts to remove a bit of pipe, since the fitting will take up some space.

One of the small ones are good for getting into tight spaces:

Fit it round the pipe and do up the knurled knob tightly. Turn it round the pipe a couple of times and then tighten the knob again. Repeat a few times and it will cut cleanly through the pipe leaving the end smooth and slightly tapered / rounded off - perfect for push fit fittings.

Yup, you can also get flexi fittings that have a service valve built into one end.

So long as you can turn off the hot water, you should be fine. (with a traditional hot water cylinder there may be a shut off valve in the cold feed from the header tank into the base of the hot water cylinder, if not, you can always reach into the cold water cistern and stick a plug into the outlet - that will prevent fresh water getting into the cylinder and in turn stop any hot water getting out)

[harryagain]

Many of these "quareter turn valves" are absolute crap and may not function when you want to operate them in a few years. They might also leak if you do. So not worth bothering. As you have changed the taps you will know what's needed to drain down. Just get on and do it.

[Tim+]

Indeed. Another problem is that unless they're "full bore" they will grossly restrict the flow in a gravity fed system.

Tim

[Roger Mills]

Agreed. I would caution against using it on an existing pipe in a confined space though, unless you can be certain of making a really clean cut, and can get at the pipe to clean it up with wire wool. A compression fitting would be a safer bet. Also, the OP is assuming that the pipe is 22mm but doesn't state the age of the installation. If it's pre about 1970, it could be imperial 3/4" pipe in which case a 22mm pushfit won't be a tight enough fit - but 22mm compression is ok with a suitable olive.

The other thing about the fitting referred to is that it isn't full bore, and may restrict the flow on a gravity hot water system.

Having said all that, I agree with the first remark - that all that may be needed is a new fibre washer.

[sm_jamieson]

I note that some of the other flexible connectors on the Screwfix site say not suitable for drinking water. I've bought various versions of these hoses over the years and never considered either restriction. And I've even drunk hot water ! Simon.