I'm looking for a HW cylinder/tank that can fit through an opening 25" x 23
" x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get enoug
h volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulation
is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable with a
n arc welder (not tried it that way).
I've had them made to order in the past because I've wanted larger than
standard but I expect you could get smaller ones made up but not cheap.
Otherwise maybe investigate suppliers for narrow boats and larger
caravans/ motor homes that have heating systems.
I have seen horizontally mounted ones. On the assumption that your
dimensions might be driven by loft hatch X Y and roof height Z, you
might get a larger horizontal one in?
If you want details of the custom cylinder builders the email me and
I'll dig the info out.
On 11/08/2018 02:38, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You mean one with a heating coil to run off a system boiler?
A fairly ambitious DIY project I would have said, certainly if there is
any risk of a tank full of hot water being dumped on someone in bed.
I wouldn't braze with an arc welder for high integrity, but brazing
(more usually silver soldering these days) with a good propane torch is
not too tricky especially if you are experienced at soldering. But why
not just soft solder? With careful design and enough overlap it won't be
difficult to make an unpressurised tank. I guess you would just wind
your own coil using microbore copper. I *certainly* would not try to
build a mains pressure tank (even though I could in fact design and
build one to the appropriate codes).
If you only need electric heating, then just buy one or more of the
small "under-sink" hot water units, BEING SURE TO PLUMB THEM IN
CORRECTLY. They come ready insulated.
If it were my problem, I would be wondering whether it might be easier
to increase the size of the opening to fit a commercial tank.
Except they're not cheap:
And not very large. It makes a Combi look very attractive!
On Saturday, 11 August 2018 02:38:48 UTC+1, tabby wrote:
23" x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get eno
ugh volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulatio
n is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable with
an arc welder (not tried it that way).
Thanks everyone. I'll respond here to everything.
The dimensions I gave are the biggest cube that could get in. Taking part o
f the roof off & craning it in really does not appeal. Enlarging the access
isn't really practical, it's hemmed in on 3 sides, lengthening it wouldn't
gain a lot as it still wouldn't clear the 26" limit.
This means that more than one tank/cylinder will need to be connected toget
her - whether that means plumbed, welded, brazed or sealanted. So that's on
e question, how to do that. I wouldn't even begin to trust soft solder to d
o this job.
Next question then is what material to use? SS, copper, treated mild steel
or a plastic? And whether to buy or make the tank/s. I've no experience of
welding ss, is it doable with arc?
Making a microbore exchanger or 2 is no problem. I've not looked yet for im
mersion heater bosses, don't know if they're buyable. Electrode heating is
frowned upon apparently. What's wanted is a heating coil for the boiler plu
s immersion as backup.
I can't help wondering about the possibility of adding a drain heat exchang
er to the shower & thus being able to reduce tank size. It might make sense
Then there's the question of how to construct it. It would need the header
tank on top.
On Sunday, 12 August 2018 15:00:37 UTC+1, Andrew wrote:
x 23" x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get e
nough volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulat
ion is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable wi
th an arc welder (not tried it that way).
Damn they're expensive. I should ask a scrappie.
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