Small HW cylinder

I'm looking for a HW cylinder/tank that can fit through an opening 25" x 23 " x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get enoug h volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulation is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable with a n arc welder (not tried it that way).
Any suggestions?
NT
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I've had them made to order in the past because I've wanted larger than standard but I expect you could get smaller ones made up but not cheap. Otherwise maybe investigate suppliers for narrow boats and larger caravans/ motor homes that have heating systems. I have seen horizontally mounted ones. On the assumption that your dimensions might be driven by loft hatch X Y and roof height Z, you might get a larger horizontal one in?
If you want details of the custom cylinder builders the email me and I'll dig the info out. Bob
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On 11/08/2018 02:38, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You mean one with a heating coil to run off a system boiler?
A fairly ambitious DIY project I would have said, certainly if there is any risk of a tank full of hot water being dumped on someone in bed.
I wouldn't braze with an arc welder for high integrity, but brazing (more usually silver soldering these days) with a good propane torch is not too tricky especially if you are experienced at soldering. But why not just soft solder? With careful design and enough overlap it won't be difficult to make an unpressurised tank. I guess you would just wind your own coil using microbore copper. I *certainly* would not try to build a mains pressure tank (even though I could in fact design and build one to the appropriate codes).
If you only need electric heating, then just buy one or more of the small "under-sink" hot water units, BEING SURE TO PLUMB THEM IN CORRECTLY. They come ready insulated.
If it were my problem, I would be wondering whether it might be easier to increase the size of the opening to fit a commercial tank.
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On Saturday, 11 August 2018 10:41:58 UTC+1, newshound wrote:

Or even lifting the tiles and battens and going in through the roof.
Owain
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On 11/08/2018 11:20, snipped-for-privacy@gowanhill.com wrote:

But I like Bob's idea of trying boat and caravan suppliers too.
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On 11/08/2018 12:14, newshound wrote:

Except they're not cheap: https://www.asap-supplies.com/domestic-water-supply/calorifiers-water-heaters-fittings/calorifiers/supa-hotpot-twin-coil-calorifier-520272
And not very large. It makes a Combi look very attractive!
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On 11/08/2018 11:20, snipped-for-privacy@gowanhill.com wrote:

That's what they did with mine.
They wanted to cut a truss but there was no way they were doing that without some ironware to replace the wood.
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On Saturday, 11 August 2018 02:38:48 UTC+1, tabby wrote:

23" x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get eno ugh volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulatio n is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable with an arc welder (not tried it that way).

Thanks everyone. I'll respond here to everything.
The dimensions I gave are the biggest cube that could get in. Taking part o f the roof off & craning it in really does not appeal. Enlarging the access isn't really practical, it's hemmed in on 3 sides, lengthening it wouldn't gain a lot as it still wouldn't clear the 26" limit.
This means that more than one tank/cylinder will need to be connected toget her - whether that means plumbed, welded, brazed or sealanted. So that's on e question, how to do that. I wouldn't even begin to trust soft solder to d o this job.
Next question then is what material to use? SS, copper, treated mild steel or a plastic? And whether to buy or make the tank/s. I've no experience of welding ss, is it doable with arc?
Making a microbore exchanger or 2 is no problem. I've not looked yet for im mersion heater bosses, don't know if they're buyable. Electrode heating is frowned upon apparently. What's wanted is a heating coil for the boiler plu s immersion as backup.
I can't help wondering about the possibility of adding a drain heat exchang er to the shower & thus being able to reduce tank size. It might make sense , maybe.
Then there's the question of how to construct it. It would need the header tank on top.
NT
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Starting in a loft sounds ... exciting ... have 999 ready on speed-dial.
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On Sunday, 12 August 2018 12:46:42 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:

:) I was thinking more of doing the welding in the garden.
NT
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On 11/08/2018 02:38, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

There used to be an Albion Superduty cyclinder of 45 litres capacity which was 600 mm high and 350 mm diameter.
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On Sunday, 12 August 2018 15:00:37 UTC+1, Andrew wrote:

x 23" x 26" high maximum. I assume the job will need more than one to get e nough volume. No, I don't want to convert to a combi. Adding my own insulat ion is no problem. Welding is a perhaps. I gather brazing is also doable wi th an arc welder (not tried it that way).

Damn they're expensive. I should ask a scrappie.
NT
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