Site Huts

PS

Any links to timber specs and distances apart per length?

The reason behind your question is unclear. You might consider it is no-one's business, but it might help to say a little more in order to obtain some useful advice.

Foe instance, if you were planning on making one, I would suggest instead that you bought a secondhand one and fettled it up. It is likely to be far, far cheaper and quicker than making one.

Bruce wrote... > I would suggest > instead that you bought a secondhand one and fettled it up] ?

a new word for me, is that what you meant to type.. where did you get it from?

1. Ceramics. to remove mold marks from (a cast piece).
2. Metallurgy. a. to remove sand from (a casting). b. to repair the hearth of (an open-hearth furnace).

et·tle (fe(t'l) n.

Proper or sound condition. 2.

Mental or emotional state; spirits: was in fine fettle. 2.

Metallurgy Loose sand or ore used to line the hearth of a reverberatory furnace in preparation for pouring molten metal.

tr.v. fet·tled, fet·tling, fet·tles Metallurgy To line the hearth of (a reverberatory furnace) with loose sand or ore in preparation for pouring molten metal.

Bruce wrote:

To fettle. Fettling is a word that is very commonly used in the construction industry for fixing something, tinkering with it or improving it in a small way. To restore something to good condition, a.k.a. good fettle, or fine fettle.

I suppose it's jargon, but I have heard it used on dozens of construction sites over the last 36 years.

Some more useful links here:

It's a northern expression. Fred Dibnah (for example, who was from Bolton near Manchester) used it all the time.

"To make ready" is a good start.

It applies to something that already exists and either:

(1) was once in good condition and requires work to bring it back to good condition or (2) is newly built but not completely finished or not properly adjusted for optimal performance.

Depending on context, it could mean to tidy up, repair, refurbish, calibrate, adjust, lubricate, tinker with, to convert (by whatever means necessary) from "rough" to "smooth" or from "nearly there" to "really there" in terms of either fit, finish or running.

On a sliding scale "fettle" indicates minimal work is required.

fettle -> overhaul -> rebuild -> scrap (not worth spending any time on).

I need a woman to fettle me?

Because I didn't want to waste my life chasing through reams of thread talking to self indulgent pedants who may not know the answer but will certainly have the time on an evening like tonight.

It's quite a simple problem structural engineering is geared to exacting safety requirement not likely to be met with in temporary accommodation in which there is to be no one resident.

However will the sides need be the same materials as required in a house of the same size, a wooden bungalow perhaps?

I have to admit I forgot to mention the hard standing it will be on once housed a dairy or something similar on a farm, a brick and concrete base with services. So the kitchen and toilets have to go in a certain space.

No particular offence to you, Bruce, though you do tent to feed trolls and fools or both:

If you feel excited by my reply but unable to help can you please take any childish chasings after meanings elsewhere?

Amongst engineering friends, it's always been a tounge-in-cheek expression, roughly translating as "beat the crap out of it until it fits properly" :-)

Putting your gratuitous personal abuse to one side for a moment, it does seem to have escaped you that I was actually the only person who replied with a helpful suggestion. ;-)

Just to remind you, as your memory obviously doesn't retain such details for very long, I suggested that you should buy a used site cabin and fettle it up. There are plenty of sources of used site cabins, and buying one of those can be a lot cheaper than buying the materials to build one yourself.

Please don't bother to thank me, as having put you in my kill file, I shan't be reading any response that you care to make.

Jules Richardson wibbled on Monday 29 March 2010 21:44

So it describes the QuikFit approach to exhausts then?

Next!

However will the sides need be the same materials as required in a house of the same size, a wooden bungalow perhaps?

I have to admit I forgot to mention the hard standing it will be on once housed a dairy or something similar on a farm, a brick and concrete base with services. So the kitchen and toilets have to go in a certain space.

Kitchen and toilets in a site hut? I think most people will think of a site hut as a shelter with seats and a table where the site workers can shelter when they have their breaks. That was what was provided when I worked on construction sites in the summer holidays.

You seem to have forgotten to mention almost everything of use. Your general level of information and helfulness will no doubt be reflected in the responses.

Exactly. :-)

(I think fitting exhaust systems has always been on my top ten list of least-favourite car DIY jobs, incidentally - even with all-new parts, I don't remember having one that didn't involve lots of inconvenience, swearing, cuts and bruises!)

cheers

J.

I have often heard it in relation to a job that will take and angle grinder to fix...

Say to fettle a casting - removing any flash, or other unwanted defects on the surface etc.

Insufficient information...

What's it going to be used for? A hut someone is expected to work in as a site office will have different requirements from somewhere that needs to store tools securely.

You are right.

You could get away with 1.25 square if all you need is ashed to keep cement dry in...

I thought you were talking about the walls?

The walls have to be strong enough to hold the roof. I didn't have a finished size in mind as I was asked to work on something I couldn't see possible.

They now intend to make the thing in more sensible units, I wouldn't dream of speaking about the thing in specifics, for reasons that might be more lucid some day.

The floors need to be a certain size to stop the walls flexing and the walls need to be a certain size to stop the roof leaving. But since it is on hard standing I thought the base might be mere 3 x 2.

It's been taken out of my hands now thank goodness. It has been decades since I worked on this sort of thing. We used 2 x 2 walls IIRC and housed the cross pieces.

Reconditioning some many years old ones, they seemed almost impossible to take apart. We were pressure washing them and couldn't get the phenol boards off to get rid of the stink. (Pig units.)

We won't be getting that sort of service using Sterling board.

No kidding?

Unless one knows the roof span, and the construction, one can't specify the size. However even a 3x2 stud wall with cladding each side will take several tonnes of roof without any difficulty.

Don't be too disappointed if the answers you get are not that specidif either then!

On a solid base, you don't even necessarily need a floor. Again it depends on the application.