Has anyone here used *both* CT1 and Sikaflex 291i adhesive / sealants to be able to make a real world comment on them both please?
I used CT1 to re-join the 'nothing will glue' plastic tub of a 13 month old washing machine we saved from landfill ... and that lasted another 7 years of daily exposure to heat, vibration and chemicals so am pretty confident CT1 will be ok for my wooden dinghy job, but I've never used any Sikaflex product to compare?
But it seems others do swear by Sikaflex so it must be good, but why would I use it over CT1?
No just the former, used to glue an edge soldier course of paving blocks down to a concrete base, so not much relevance to your plastic question anyway, other than to say they've stayed very firmly put.
Well, at least that re-confirms my appreciation for CT1 as a multi-purpose solution. ;-)
I asked about the Sikaflex because I wondered if it had 'other' properties not available or foremost in CT1.
It often is the case that people get used to / swear by something but it becomes outmoded (especially these days) so superceded by something better.
Like, I like Gripfill (the chemical version) but wouldn't use it over silicone where I required waterproofedness or some flexibility. I will use generic 'release agents' but prefer Plus Gas if it is available.
I've never had much luck with 'No more nails' or the like, maybe because I've rarely done anything that would make best use of NMN features. I have used Gorilla Glues and they seem to also work as I expect.
FWIW, my current scenario needing a strongish but non-hardening sealant is to semi-flexibly mount the dagger board casing of a folding boat down to it's hog piece (keel). Because the said hog piece flexes as the both is both folded / unfolded and in use (because it is a 'flexible boat'), you have to retain some flexibility in said joint whilst keeping it strong to withstand side loads whilst sailing etc.
Yes, that one (as I have an identical tube here). ;-)
That was what I used to seal the plastic washing machine tub when I cut it open with the saber saw and the company who supply the folding boats recommend for secondary seam sealing of the older boats.
The only thing is like with many other sealants of that type, as soon as you cut the top open the countdown has started. Now, that's not so bad if you leave (=waste) half a £2 tube of silicone but it's not so 'easy' to waste half a ~£10 tube of something. ;-(
However, if the job you do with it save say, the cost of a new washing machine or boat, then it's not so much of a waste. ;-)
Apology in advance - no knowledge of those two. About 4 years ago I used Evebuild's Stixall to glue an angle iron bench to concrete slabs. This is outside and fully exposed to the weather. It is still flexible, I've just given it a good hard wrenching and can't move it. I over-painted it with water-based green shed and fence paint and that is still intact.
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I'd intended to use bolts but the feet are too close to the edges of the slabs.
I did similar with my workshop bench (as the outer legs would be close to the edge of the screed) sticking it (well the mounting pads) to the concrete floor using Gripfill. ;-)
That is a good / tough test (Gripfill isn't waterproof).
Looks like good stuff. So, would you say it remains 'rubbery' flexible or just not rigid Peter?
I bonded plates with bolts sticking up to the floor under the bench leg positions and could then adjust them all with shim washers to get the bench level ... and then locked them down with nuts on the top.
Rubbery, firmish, fully regains shape after deformation (note: I'm not trying destructive tests!).
That's a good ides, but I'd now have to cut through the adhesive - don't want to risk moving the slabs. I didn't mind a bit of slope as it helps drainage.
I cleaned and repainted the bench after removing the old 1mm, rusty, top and sticking/screwing (st. st. screws, flush) a 4mm top to it. Used Aldidl metal paint then, as it was a v. shiny, silvery, finish, did it with drab green fence paint - remarkably durable.
Ok thanks Peter. Sounds like it might be worth getting some to experiment with. ;-)
And it's about half the price of the alternatives we have been talking about.
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Sure, not an easy retro fit etc.
Yup, on an outdoor bench I's agree it being 'a good thing'. ;-)
What I find funny about doing this sort of stuff is how you can often
*stumble* upon a very durable solution ...
We had a small fibreglass dinghy and the inside was looking a bit tired (the fibreglass wasn't very well wetted out in places etc). So Dad bought some 'special two part paint' that had some very strict prerequisites that we followed to the letter. Not long after it started falling off in chunks. ;-(
I was rebuilding my 14' sailing dinghy (new mahogany transom and some deck repairs) and whilst re / varnishing the wood, spilt a dew drops in the dusty fibreglass hull and when cleaning up afterwards, found the blobs of polyurethane varnish had stuck like you know what.
So, I chemically cleaned the inside of the hull and painted it with first slightly diluted and then full fat white polyurethane yacht paint and it too stuck like you know what. So much for that 'special' paint eh. ;-)
about 10 - 12 years ago I put some pale emulsion on the wall above the bath then, after a few years, noticed that there were a couple of drip-runs on the side of the bath (not easy to see even knowing where they are). After 10 years of use and cleaning the paint is still there and too hard to remove easily. I've left it just to see how long it'll last.
I bet an expensive 'enamel' paint would wear off in a couple of years.
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