shower plumbing - chase depth, tips

Sep 23, 2006 4 Replies

Hi,



I'm planning to plumb in an exposed thermostatic mixer shower. Taking feed from existing bathroom pipework. It seems straigh forward, but any tips please? I'll be chasing out a pipe channels, how deep do they need to be? What's the easiest plastic pipework to use, linking to existing copper pipes? Also, any recommendations for showers? There's a huge range in prices, are the more expensive really worth it, or are eg. the screwfix ones any good? Thanks very much



Will you have enough pressure?

It seems straigh forward, but any

Polybutylene (PB) lays flatter than PEX. Use compression fittings where you have to bury them and pressure test before burying. I prefer using since then I'm burying soldered joints

Also, any recommendations for showers? There's a huge

The cheapo bar mixers are usually OK and are easy to change if you have problems. Ditto standard sized round ones. The bar mixer types are harder to mount using the stupid cranked 1/2" x 3/4" reducers they give you but you can make something better out of standard fittings (from a real plumbers merchants or BES).

Here's one I made earlier:

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Oops! Meant to say "I prefer using copper since then I'm burying soldered joints"

John, I'm sure you'd agree that any buried joints at all should be avoided if at all possible - but why the advice to bury for compression fittings rather than soldered? I'd have thought that if either type is likely to develop a leak over time, it would be the compression sort?

David

Thanks for the replies. The pressure is fine for the shower (about 7L a min). In the pics, you've got 15mm pipes to 22mmm, attached to the unit, will I get any pressure value from running 22mm pipe all the way to the unit instead of reducing then at the t-branch and then expanding again at the shower? Presumably all shower units (haven't bought it yet, but will be an exposed traditional style one) have standard inlet sizes? I'm going for all copper and soldered joints. The problem is I'm having to have quite a few changes in direction to get round some obstacles so there'll be a fair few buried joints. That was the idea of using plastic pipes so curves rather than joints would be possible (take it existing mortar in the walls shouldn't cause any corrosion problems?!).Any more advice gratefully recieved. cheers

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