Sensor Systems Watchman battery pack

Dec 07, 2009 4 Replies

Hi



I have a 1100 litre oil tank fitted with a Sensor Systems Watchman wireless transmitter, and a receiver with a 7-segment display in the house, which displays an oil level indication between 0-9,F (0=3Dempty, F=3DFull)



The transmitter is powered by a 'battery power tube' which retails for =A326.50 from Sensor System's website (see

formatting link
've bought a replacement in the past but this time around it occurred to me that it just looks like a copper tube that contains regular AAA batteries. So yesterday I removed it, knocked the cap off and sure enough, 4 x AAA Duracells inside a plastic insert.



I replaced them with 4 new Duracell AAA batteries and refitted the pack and it worked, but today the battery low indicator is flashing on the receiver/display unit already. I am concerned that I may have refitted the battery pack the wrong way around, ie. reversed polarity. Not sure if the transmitter would have worked in this case but can't think why else the batteries would have run out so fast.



Anyone have any ideas, or know what the polarity of the batteries should be?



Thanks in anticipation! Jez


Plus Postage plus VAT and I can't find what their postage charges are easily so I'd guess about =A335 delivered. Yipes!

Make sure all the connections are clean including the ends of the batteries. I've known them to be coated with a thin insulating layer that is enough to stop kit working, quick rub on your trousers cleans it off. BTDTGTTS.

The same as the ones you took out. B-)

Moral: When dismantling kit for which you have no instructions make notes and/or take photos through the dismantling process of how it was orginally assembled.

I doubt the Tx would have worked at all with incorrect polarity, so I'd check for good clean connections and no ingress of wet. Did put the new batteries into the sleeve? Do they slide easily inside that sleeve? As the batteries contract as they cool outside it might weaken the contact presure between them. BTDTGTTSAW.

Someone in (I think) this newsgroup, came up with an interesting method for draining radiators within the past couple of days. It involved fixing a Scrader valve to a drilled bleed screw, so that air pressure could be blown into the radiator, to blow the water back down through the rad tails and up to the header tank.

Clever I thought, but what the idea still needs is some (similarly clever) means by which to work out that the level has gone down far enough to clear the bottom of the radiator and or the valves, other than cracking a connection open to see, or blowing enough air in that the entire system has to be bled afterwards.

Anyone suggest a way to do it?

Drive out the water with the system on and the radiator hot and feel the temperature drop as you pump. Even more fun if you have access to a thermal imaging camera! Bob

Or try one of those liquid crystal thermometer strips. You wouldn't want the rad at operating temperature (60C+) just warm.

Probably outside most of our budgets.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required