securing kitchen cabinets to wall

[RobertL]

Overkill perhaps but: I used steel studs resin anchored far into the brickwork. I didn't want any load putting on the plaster which is old and fragile.

For the floor units the studs connect to steel brackets screwed to the units. The wall units hang in the usual way from metal plates bolted to the studs.

Since the floor units are secured by the resin studs to the wall I could probably do away with the legs and plinth altogether and let the floor units 'hover'. Might look stylish with a light underneath..

Robert

[RJH]

I think you might run into difficulties with appliances and the edges of your base units. If you can work round that, I'd go 2".

Cheers, Rob

[fred]

Common sense would indicate what would be a sensible load. I'm sure if you asked any manufacturer they would provide you with the information.

Sensible people don't expect to be spoon fed every little bit of common sen se information.

So it now appears that it was the carcase that failed not the wall fixing. They must have been shoddy. A well made carcase fixed to the wall in accord ance to the manufacturers specification will take normal kitchen type loadi ngs. It doesn't require a structure similar to the Forth Road Bridge to do a job that is done by competent people on a daily basis.

[Dave Liquorice]

batten

I use something like 3/4 x 1 1/2. Large face against the wall, screws an inch or two in from each end and every 18" or so along the length. Modesty blocks to stop movement of worktop.