Sealing toilet outlet

[Lobster]

There is a tiny, intermittent leak (I think!) on the outlet of my toilet

- well, that's the only place I can think that the moisture on the floor's can be coming from: well, that or an invisible crack in the pan... :-(

Anyway, I've just bought a new multikwik adaptor for it:

when I fit this, what's the best stuff to use to seal this to the soil pipe and/or soil pipe: is this a job for Plumber's Mait, or just good old silicone sealant? Or is it best left 'dry'?

Thanks David

[EricP]

It's designed to be dry, but I only use that if it is a very tight fit.

Mait is fairly friendly, or even simple putty.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Tis true, but I have had success with copious globs of silicone.

It is axiomatic that a newly installed toilet always leaks.

It leaks around the cistern inlet, because the stupid fiber washers are flat and the cistern is not.

It leaks around the cistern outlet for similar reasons.

It leaks where the downpipe connects to the cistern, because its made of crap materials and the washers never fit.

It leaks where the downpipe enters the pan, because the washers are purely cosmetic, and it leaks around the outlet, because it might as well as it leaks every where else.

And if its close coupled it will leak there as well.

I just use silicone on every joint and PTFE tape on every thread and redo as necessary.

I thought it was me till a professional plumber took a kit and threw away very single bit apart from the flush mechanism, downpipe, cistern and pan 'its cheaper for me to put in proper parts, than come back 5 times'

[Phil L]

Before you attempt any of the stuff below, take a look inside the cistern. I had an identical problem only a few months ago with a tennant of mine, I went round there umpteen times before I found the cause of it, by which time it had got steadily worse...the water was dripping off the soil outlet, making me think the same as you, but I took the lid off the cistern and flushed it and it looked OK - I did this everytime I went around but never did I wait until the water had actually *stopped* entering the cistern -the fact was that it didn't - there was a tiny drip, drip, drip that wouldn't stop, no matter how much I adjusted the ballcock fill level, and the way it was getting out of the cistern and onto the soilpipe below, was through a perished gasket around the overflow, that is to say, the water level was never actually reaching the pipe to get outside because the screw fitting / gasket was below this level.

[Lobster]

Oh bollocks, I'll just go and pee in the garden then...

David

[John]

Total drivel snipped Do not take any of that as correct as it isn't!! If plumbing parts are put together correctly they do not leak, otherwise a roll of PTFE and a tube of silicone would be standard with every part and the statement "I just use silicone on every joint and PTFE tape on every thread and redo as necessary" and "I thought it was me till a professional plumber took a kit and threw away very single bit apart from the flush mechanism, downpipe, cistern and pan 'its cheaper for me to put in proper parts, than come back 5 times" would be in the Plumbers handbook!!.

HTH

John

[The Natural Philosopher]

Mostly thats what I do anyway.;-)

[The Natural Philosopher]

Oh dear..changed your identity again, Drivel?

How do the doctors keep up with them all?!

"Bandar Log", Drivel, and my real name is Kaa..

>

[Brian L Johnson]

Lobster wrote

If your toilet is in the same room as a bath/shower, don't forget to check whether or not the drips are due to condensation. A freezing cold cast-iron soil pipe protruding into the warm, moist bathroom air...

Make sure that the soil pipe is wiped dry and then check it again after you've had a bath/shower.