GFI Outlet

Hi, Take it out. GFI is not for that kind of application. Motor creates surge current when starts. It'll trip like that on and off driving you nuts. Also you don't plug in fridge into GFI for the same reason.

Current code requires a GFCI within 5' of the laundry sink so I hope you are wrong.

That may be true, but the OP said it did NOT trip when the washer was being used. I recommend the OP pay attention to when it DOES trip. When the dryer is used? When alother appliance in the house is used? When the ham radio transmitter in the next room is used? That kind of investigation should lead to the real solution. It is possible the GFCI is bad, but it is also very possible it is not. Perhaps another wiring error incorrectly cross wiring another circuit is the cause.

Also, are there any children around the house who may press the "test" button?

Pat

Hi, Actually washer and dryer should be fed by different circuit.

I can get my wife's china closet "puck" lights to go on when I key my transmitter. Also causes the paper shredder to fire up..

Washers should not be on a gfCi. Actually , nothing with a motor should be.

Not if it's a dedicated SINGLE (as opposed to duplex) outlet.

that has nothing to do with it.

This is out of date information. If a non-defective GFCI trips, it is because there is over 5ma of current imbalance between the hot and neutral conductors. Any appliance should have way less than 5ma of leakage from hot to ground, even motors. If an appliance has over 5ma of leakage current, it's defective. For example, the motor winding insulation may be degraded, so that on startup (when current is highest), the leakge current exceeds 5ma.

Cheers, Wayne

No, he's right. Laundry sink is different situation. They just don't work on heavy inductive or loads (larger electric motors) for reasons already stated.

Twayne`

While this may be true it has frequently been mentioned here on these pages that any 115 volt motor equipped domestic appliance, fridge, freezer, washer etc. should NOT be plugged into a GFCI equipped circuit. Too much chance of a momentary unbalance! And they can't all have defective winding insualtion? Especially those all-enclosed fridge compressor units?

GFCI (So called Ground Fault ...... ) operate when there is a 'slight imbalance' of a few milliamps (thousandths of amps) between the live and neutral current flow.

During motor starting of any AC induction or other types of motors, due to capacitance of motor windings to the grounded appliance framework etc. there 'might' be a momentary slight current unbalance which is quite normal and OK.

GFCI are designed to protect humans against a fault such as a wire inside touching the metal frame of an appliance especially in damp/wet conditions; such as an operating but faulty electric lawn mower, or electric drill. (But they both have electric motors! So what gives?) The human touching the defective appliance can provide a path to ground and get a potentially lethal shock. The faulty path to ground (through the human) unbalances the current and 'trips' the GFCI for safety.

Can somebody make a reference to an electrical code that confirms the above?

Again, that is outdated information--current generation GFCIs and current generation appliances should work together OK. In certain situations, the 2008 NEC will require a GFCI, e.g. in a kitchen outside of a dwelling unit, all 120V 20A and 15A receptacles require GFCI protection, even refrigerators. While in a residential kitchen, the refrigerator need not be on a GFCI.

An appliance will be built to a standard that allows some small amount of leakage current (there is always a little). Perhaps older appliances were built to looser standards. Plus in any motor, as the insulation ages due to the heat generated by using the motor, the leakage current will increase.

Cheers, Wayne

ok, keep putting them on there and keep resetting them. yor choice.

While this may be true it has frequently been mentioned here on these pages that any 115 volt motor equipped domestic appliance, fridge, freezer, washer etc. should NOT be plugged into a GFCI equipped circuit. Too much chance of a momentary unbalance! And they can't all have defective winding insualtion? Especially those all-enclosed fridge compressor units?

GFCI (So called Ground Fault ...... ) operate when there is a 'slight imbalance' of a few milliamps (thousandths of amps) between the live and neutral current flow.

During motor starting of any AC induction or other types of motors, due to capacitance of motor windings to the grounded appliance framework etc. there 'might' be a momentary slight current unbalance which is quite normal and OK.

GFCI are designed to protect humans against a fault such as a wire inside touching the metal frame of an appliance especially in damp/wet conditions; such as an operating but faulty electric lawn mower, or electric drill. (But they both have electric motors! So what gives?) The human touching the defective appliance can provide a path to ground and get a potentially lethal shock. The faulty path to ground (through the human) unbalances the current and 'trips' the GFCI for safety.

Can somebody make a reference to an electrical code that confirms the above?

Section 210.8 of the new code spells it out. As Wayne Whitney points out, many of the responses are out dated, the new code have very few exceptions for the GFCI outlets in required areas. If you stick your fridge, or washer in a garage or unfinished basement, for example, they must be GFCI protected

You probably have a defective GFCI, but it is entirely possible to have a ground fault in one of the appliances. If your machines are located in an unfinished basement, a garage, or within six feet of a slop sink, GFCI protection is required by current code, NO EXCEPTIONS

I think he's referring to a "gas" dryer

How do you reconcile that with the code that requires them a lot of places where motors are used? (Kitchen counters, garages, basements, outdoors, bathrooms and within 5' of the laundry sink).

Not true at all. (7) Laundry, utility, and wet bar sinks ? where the receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink (with no exceptions)

Same for basements, crawl spaces and garages now too