SDS drilling, tips on how to use.

Oct 08, 2003 8 Replies

I've just bought myself an SDS drill (the £30 Ferm one from Screwfix), which won't see much heavy use but will supplement my normal hammer drill when drilling brick/stone.



As I've never played with one before, I grabbed a couple of loose bricks that were lying around and set to playing with my new toy. Using a chisel bit made cleaning off old mortar etc childs play, I can see that doing a pile of bricks will be much quicker with this.



I then tried drilling a couple of holes. Using a 16mm bit, I drilled through the brick like it was butter (my hammer drill would have taken at least 3 times as long with a 6mm bit, and would have required me applying quite a bit of force), however when the bit broke through the brick large parts of brick broke off. When I tried drilling a second hole, the brick actually broke in two when I was nearly through. Now, before I am actually let loose on my house, is there a way to use this thing that won't result in large parts of wall falling off? :)


Slugsie wrote

You know, I'm in exactly the same situation with another cheap SDS, the Argos one. In order to run power to the newly-built garage, I drilled a hole through 2 courses of brick from near the consumer unit into the garage.

It went through like a knife through butter, but took a chunk of brick with it on the other side. Its just too violent!

In addition, if I start drilling a hole with the hammer action on, it takes a chunk out of the surface. I've got loads of sockets and shelves to put in the garage, and I fear that for each hole I'll have to start off with a traditional hammer drill, then finish off with the SDS. Not sure its worth the hassle.

So I'd be grateful for any advice too!

I always start drilling with the hammer off, and if you end up going into mortar (particularly lime mortar), then the hammer is not necessary. I do find the odd brick which just completely disintegrates when an SDS drill in hammer mode touches it. I switch to hammer mode only when I hit something which is fairly solid and needs it, although SDS bits don't work anything like as well in non-hammer mode as regular (non-SDS) masonary bits.

If you're drilling all the way through a wall, then it's best to drill half way from one side, and the other half from the other side. You get a nice neat hole then. But that's easier said than done, and I often just drill and fix up later ;-)

If you're only drilling to put in a screw/whatever, make sure you don't drill any further than 2" away from the other side - so if drilling a 100mm block, don't drill further than 50mm.

To prevent chunks being blown off when you start the hole, hold the drill firmly against the surface and at right angles.

I had the similar problems when drilling holes in my concrete prefab garage. I was able to help matters by securing a piece of scrap wood behind where I was drilling.

I appreciate this may not always be possible.

If you can turn off the "hammer" action unless you need it or take it slowly. I took some bricks out for my dad the other week for a new sink waste and because the mortar is sandy he had to spend half the time it took putting back the bricks it had shook loose. ;-)

Mark S.

I think your dad has a problem.

An SDS drill *is* a hammer drill, it just uses a slightly different mechanism to apply the blows. You should still drill pilot holes rather than force the thing through, and to prevent excessive break-out spalling support the far side surface with a board and prop or similar, or drill from each side.

Good way to shag the bit.

Bulls and china shops spring to mind!

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No the council got shafted by the builders robbing cement that they didn't use to make the mortar. ;-)

It's lasted 40 odd years so far and I doubt he'll be repointing until he's retired.

Mark S.

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