Sander recommendation

IME folks seem unnecessarily scared of belt sanders - while they are great for preparation or rough sanding, you can also get a decent finish with them. The only thing to avoid is leaving it sat sanding the same place too long... light pressure and constant movement is the key usually. I have refinished complete table tops with a belt sander, and got quite acceptable results.

(there is also a world of difference between crap and ok belt sanders... my first was a cheap nutool one - mainly plastic construction it did not track well, and so if you put it away and forgot to release the belt tension, it would track the belt half way off the rollers, and you could not adjust it back - i.e. it had deformed in storage!) It was also big, heavy, noisy, and did not actually sand that fast. I replaced it with a s/h makita - half the size and weight but much better build quality. That is far quicker and easier to use - sands faster and better as well).

Reply to
John Rumm
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"Clutch" as in a offset, relative to the drive point, mounted bearing. The plate is sort of driven by drag in the bearing but it's not really a clutch. In use I think most of the rotational drive for the plate comes from the interaction between the abrasive fristion, the offset and the drive as the bearing doesn't have much drag at all, ie the plate when spinning takes a while to stop once the motor is switched of and stopped.

The orbital mechansiums I've looked at have been just a mm to two offset driven pin acting in a hole in the plate.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

They're not horrendously expensive in power tool terms. I've got a green Bosch which was on offer at IIRC Screwfix - but that was some time ago. I've also got all the other types of sander - but the belt one is the only one which shifts things fast. I use a random orbit one (Lidl) for finishing.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Indeed - I was using the term loosely. Its a friction ring that does (some of) the drive transfer on mine:

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from the interaction between the abrasive fristion, the offset and the

Yup that is your classic arrangement - with an eccentric counter weight to reduce vibration. I was wondering how you would get a random orbit action without also having the rotating pad though...?

Reply to
John Rumm

My green Bosch rectangular sander eats paper sheets. So much so I buy it boxed in bulk (usually boxed for Makita as it's the same fit but cheaper).

How long do the belts last on a belt sander - do I need to buy lots or just a couple (for unpainted wood)?

Reply to
Tim Watts

Belts will last longer than sheets, but you'll need more than one of each, depending on the amount of surface you have to sand. The last time I did this I bought them in packets of 5 from Toolstation (B&Q prices were ridiculous). 5no 60 grit, 5no 80 grit and 5no 120 grit should go a long way. As John says, you can get a good fine finish with 120 grit. Just keep the sander moving about and bring it into contact with the wood gently.

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

Probably depends on how rough your "rough sawn" is. Has it come straight off a knackered and buckled 36" logging saw with so many splinters on the face that it has furry ripple effect or is it essentially smooth with very shallow saw marks?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

I'd be reaching for the power plane for the former ;>)

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

It's that bitch rough-arse stuff that is still giving me jip from the splinter that went under my fingernail and I pulled most of it out.

Essentially covered with 5mm pointy bits.

Reply to
Tim Watts

Thank you - that's very good to know.

I'm looking at the Bosch belt sanders - trying to decide if I should stretch to a "Blue".

Reply to
Tim Watts

Yup, pack of 5 of each grit should cover a a pretty large amount of timber.

Reply to
John Rumm

Yes, and I can heartily recommend the Ryobi random orbital sander that I got from Screwfix. It has lasted through two house renovations and can either rapidly sand back and shape wood using 40/60 grit or finely finish using 120/240. Discs seem to last longer than with the previous models I have owned (B&D, Bosch)

Reply to
Steve Firth

If you need to work overhead etc then look for a 3" wide one rather than a 4" - less weight and easier to control.

You can normally find the Makita 9911 for well under a hundred.

Reply to
John Rumm

Was about to post:

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No - have not got one, but have been mulling it over for ages. So your Q prompted me to look.

Reply to
polygonum

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Being at work, I can't remember what model my Makita is, but when a bearing finally went (after sanding numerous timbers and several

*floors*) I had the sander repaired rather than replace it (that is, I accepted a neighbour's kind offer to take it apart and investigate for the cost of wine and good will, and bought a =A33 bearing).

Cheers Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

That's a good price, IMO.

Regards Richard

Reply to
geraldthehamster

OOOhh and 1/2 the price of the blue bosch... Axminster have it for 89 quid inc.

Thanks John!

Reply to
Tim Watts

I bought a Makita R.O. sander, B05031, 125mm. Not cheap but nice to use and effective.

mark

Reply to
mark

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