While I don't agree with the notion that better bits will necessarily last longer when using an impact driver, I do think that a lot of bundled Makita and DeWalt bits are of quite poor quality.
I have several sets of Wera bits, and have been very impressed with them, they seem to last a very long time.
Unfortunately Makita, Bosch and DeWalt all supply pretty mediochre bits in their tool bundles. Rather stupid really because they let down what are otherwise excellent tools.
The only screwdriver/drill manufacturer that I have found who does supply good quality bits with tools and separately is Festool.
In terms of good quality screwdriver bits, I tend to use products made by Wera and Wiha.
Having said that, I wonder whether using Pozidriv screws is a good idea with an impact driver anyway. Cam out is a problem with them at the best of times and nurges the bit as well. From the photo, it looks as though that had been happening before the bit broke. Adding impact driving to the mix makes the effect worse.
Generally Torx screws and bits seem to work a lot better from the perspective of avoiding camout. I tend to use them for most purposes now, although I haven't tried them for impact use. Might be worth a try.
|> Having said that, I wonder whether using Pozidriv screws is a good |> idea with an impact driver anyway. Cam out is a problem with them at |> the best of times and nurges the bit as well. From the photo, it |> looks as though that had been happening before the bit broke. |> Adding impact driving to the mix makes the effect worse. |>
| |Yes - I think I agree - Posidrive + Impact driver probably not a good idea.
Definitely Posidrives need a nice even torque, just enough to drive them in.
It's a word I've always used (as in nurged up) for things like stripped or crossed threads, cammed out screws that can no longer be driven either way, basically anything where there has been some mechanical effect that prevents the item from being put in or taken out.
Another typical example is where you change a float valve for one with a plastic thread. The right way to do this is to get the nut of the tap connector on with the back nut that holds it onto the tank/cistern loose. If you do it the other way, Sod's law dictates tha tthe plumbing won't be well enough aligned and the tap connector nut will go on cross threaded. There is more than an even chance, if you are heavy handed, that the thread of the valve will be nurged up.
The effect can be compounded of course because typically then something heavy/rough/risky is going to have to be used to get the thing out or put it all the way in
This is a usefully inoccuous expression that you can use in the presence of elderly spinsters when you are fixing their plumbing and something bad happens. Of course, they might ask you whether you f*cked it up, but then at least you know where you are. :-)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.