Russell Hobbs Ceramic Coffee Percolator c. 1975

Mar 15, 2024 Last reply: 1 year ago 24 Replies

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"You should buy (NC) Normally Closed discs that open at approximately 90 degrees C (194 degrees F)."

I guess the other part of it, is where the sensor is located. If sensing that temperature, that's likely sensing the water temperature above the stem-base. You would think the base plate would regularly get hotter than that.

On this one, the trick is, the heater is a "pot" underneath the base, in the center of the percolator base. The thermostatic disc is placed right over on the edge of the pot base, as far away from the heating chamber as they could get it. That's to emulate sensing the water temperature of the upper section of the pot, versus sensing the temperature in the heater pot.

"farberware coffee maker percolator thermostat fix repair"

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Paul

Thanks for those.

Well, I ordered all my bits last night so we will see what happens later. If the thermostats I've bought which are ranging around 70 turn out to be set too low, I'll try buying more with a higher operating temperature.

Nick

I'm back in Dear Old Blighty again, thanks, and apart from dealing with the garden shed which collapsed in the winter gales and similar weather-related stuff I'm wrestling with this old Russell Hobbs. Last year I bought a Technivorm Moccamaster Filter Coffee Maker which was made by hand (almost[1]) in the Netherlands and is now installed in the kitchen in Argentina. I'm sorely tempted to buy another one for over here but for the time being I think I probably ought to just make do with what I've already got, for now.

And you?

Nick [1]

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Note the robot in the middle of the factory floor

The 205 is likely Fahrenheit, so 96'C.

Yes, 70 deg was too low. I experimented with other settings and in the end I settled for the popular 90deg one. Because of the positioning of the sensor, there's enough thermal gradient to switch it off when the coffee is at a good drinking temperature and leave it to sit there nice and hot without reactivating the perc.

One detail. The design of the thermal switch has changed since the last century and the new one incorporates a plastic insulating cap. The old one had a separate cap and of course the springy device which holds the sensor pressed in contact with the jug doesn't make proper contact without it.

What was needed was a thin, flat, hard piece of temperature resistant insulating material. I didn't have any mica but, after rummaging through my instrument-making spares, I found a suitable piece of mother-of-pearl.

Thanks for everybody's interest!

Nick

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