Router - and rebating

[Roger Mills]

Yes, that would be safest! One of these days I'll have a look for a suitable piece of sheet steel (probably about 10g at a guess) and make a copy of the bottom bit of the riving knife.

[Tim S]

Stuart Noble wibbled:

I think that could work :)

I think either my 4" scraper (razor sharp one) or a knackered wood chisel could be the ticket.

You're right - if I can do it reliably and without causing a mess or wholesale destruction, it is going to be the best option. Only need to take

3-5mm off and that's not in all the places, just some.

Cheers

Tim

[Tim S]

Robert Laws wibbled:

Good point - though sanding anything except wood is no longer permitted as we've got the house clean (3/4s of it is still a building site, but it's a very clean building site - needs to be as the kids live down there some days)

I'm going to try with the shaving/scraping suggestion and see how it goes :0

Cheers

Tim

[Tim S]

John Rumm wibbled:

This is also a good suggestion - I hadn't thought of doing that. I'll see how the plaster shaving goes first.

I might need this method as unfortunately 3 segments of my nice straight flat frames cupped a bit due to large amounts of wet plaster (wish I'd anticipated that and waterproofed the back!).

It's not much - a few mm at most, not enough to really notice or mess up door fitting, but it's introduced an angle on the edges, where the architrave will go. Planing that in situ is possible but fiddly.

I'll have a look in B&Q at the hardwood trim shelf - 5mm x 10mm would do the job nicely if there's some wood to match mine...

Cheers

Tim

[Cicero]

==========================================

Try a surform if you've got one.

Cic.

[Tim S]

Cicero wibbled:

Another genius suggestion - ta.

Good old uk.d-i-y :)

[John Rumm]

Ripsaw slices off a larger plank if not...

[Stuart Noble]

An old saw can work well (the longer the better). The teeth score the peaks and don't touch the troughs, so you get a "map" of the high spots, hopefully scored to the right depth.

[Stuart Noble]

Architrave normally covers the edge of the frame, so that doesn't have to be dead flat. I usually pin the 3 lengths to the frame, get the mitres lined up properly (this stands out like a sore thumb if it isn't right), then do whatever filling is required (this nobody is ever going to notice).

[Phil Addison]

If thats like the one I have from B&Q with a 4" blade slightly angled to a metal rubberised handle, like the shaft of a hammer, I used it successfully to shave off a few mm of surplus plaster that was in the way of my skirting boards. It gives surprisingly fine control for such a vicious looking blade.

Phil

[Phil Addison]

My choice would be my table saw (actually a Triton Workcentre), just put the arch on edge against the fence, with the saw blade set low down, and take the rebate out in 1 or 2 passes. No need for the finess of a router as you are going to caulk in the joint anyway.

Phil

[The Medway Handyman]

Like this?

bit of kit, as long as you change the blade every now & then. Fantastic for removing old silicone as well.

[Stuart Noble]

Mine's self sharpening :-) Certainly on plaster, turning the tool over frequently during use hones the edge to perfection. I suppose it wears down eventually, but I can't remember the last time I changed a blade. I put the HD scraper in the Mole Grips category. Once you get the hang of using them, you wouldn't be without them.