retaining insulation in a "one sided" stud wall

[Jim K]

3X2 stud wall "dry lining" cellar, so "one sided" i.e. rear face not boarded over.

Plan on putting 50mm rockwool bats into the wall before pb-ing over.

How do you ensure the insulation says put? and doesn;t fall out "backwards"..

Musings so far are

1) it'll stay there by wedge power alone,

2)run some strings/gaffer tape across behind the studwall for it to "lean on"

Anyone had a similar quandary and resolved it ?

Cheers Jim K

[Phil L]

Garden netting stapled on back of studding

[newshound]

+1.

You are *sure* it is a dry wall?

[Jim K]

eh?

Jim K

[stuart noble]

String (synthetic). I got in a right mess trying to use netting

[Dave Liquorice]

Cellar walls are rarely dry, unless the cellar has been properly tanked.

Even if the walls feel dry it that'll be because the damp has evaporated... Cover the wall and you need to think about the damp that will build up behind it.

Rot proof string is probably the simplest support. Spaced around 12" and stapled to the side of the studs and inch in so that the batts are

*slightly* proud of the front side of the studs to elimnate any gap between them and the PB. A gap would allow a draft and partially defeat the object of the insulation.

[Jim K]

or make arrangements for it

if the batts butt up against the studwork where would a draught get in/out?

Jim K

[Dave Liquorice]

Top and bottom? Though I guess the batts would be snug against the floor and ceiling timbers. There will still be air movement into and out of the gap and possibly convection within it if it's an inch or so.

[Jim K]

er... never 'eard o' noggins lad?

Jim K

[Hugo Nebula]

Use a solid board cut to fit snugly. Rockwool do rigid (or rather, more rigid than cavity batts) insulation, and polyisocyanurate (e.g., "Kingspan" or "Celotex", etc.) is rigid, and almost twice as good as mineral fibre.

[Jim K]

mmmm cost exceeds budget on those ones I'm afraid...

Cheers Jim K