Replace Plasterboard in bathroom

[mark.ovens]

Hi, Hopefully a simple question..... I've been attempting to remove the ceramic tiles in my bathroom, but all I seem to be doing is removing small chunks of tiles, along with the plasterboard itself.

I'm thinking of just ripping out the plasterboard (with tiles attached), replacing, and tiling.

Are there any special considerations I need to think about when replacing the existing plasterboard with regards to how to attach to the batons, waterproofing, re-tiling etc...

Any help would be much appreciated, as this is my first attempt at anything on this scale (the whole bathroom suite has been removed by the way).

Cheers

Mark

[The Natural Philosopher]

No. As long as you do a decent job of tiling, and seal and grout any cracks, ordinary board whacked up solidly is fine.

Cure those how insist that Aquapanel is the only solution, and those who insist that nothing less than 3/4" marine ply will do..

[Jonathan Pearson]

Have a look at wickes' good idea leaflet 54 (and 122 - to start with) - as

, it covers most of the OP's questions

Although I didn't use aquapanel in my bath area (we don't use it for showers) , we did use it in the sepetate shower area. Whether on not you use it is upto you - but if your using your bath for showers then I'd go for it, even if you aquapanel upto 0.9m all way round the bath (rest plasterboard), you'll still have change from £50.

Jon

[Ian Stirling]

Aquapanel is maybe 30 quid per full sheet - so maybe 100-300 quid more.

However.

There is 'moisture resistant' plasterboard for around half this, or

50-150 quid more.

This has wax impregnated into the central core, so it's significantly better in the damp.

If you're feeling really cheap, there are alternatives - for example, a test I did indicated that cooking foil adhered to plasterboard just fine with PVA, and tiles adhered to that quite well with stock adhesive.

Or, just do nothing, and it'll probably work just fine.

I've been investigating this - as I'm going to be reinsulating part of the house, which will involve replacing the plasterboard anyway. And I was considering something that will let me easily make it into a wet-room in the future.

Of course, putting aquapanel/... only under the tiles is considerably cheaper.

If I was putting in a shower now, I'd certainly do it - it's well under

50 quid, for peace of mind.

For surfaces that are very occasionally sprayed - probably not.

[auctions]

Taking off - it'll be really surprisingly heavy!

Replacing - aquapanel is good, but harder to fit than plasterboard and more expensive. Otherwise, tile shops sell a rubberised primer for plasterboard which works well and is straightforward. I think it's about =A330. They do a matting to match for wet room floor tiling, but for walls the paint on stuff is fine on its own. The one I've used is made by BAL

A

[adder1969]

That's what I did and would do it again wthout hesitation.

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Skim the new plasterboard to alleviate the same problem again in the future. Stupid practice to tile on bare PB in the first place.

If you're not good at plastering,don't worry just put it on as level as you can and dont worry about the finish as the tiles will hide it. :-)

[mark.ovens]

Cheers for all your responses, exactly the answers I was looking for....(i.e nothing too difficult!!)

Thanks again

Mark

[Stuart]

Waste of time .Just rip it out and start again ....

Stuart PS.I's not batons...It's battens ..LOL

[The Natural Philosopher]

Ah..gerroff.

its not problem anyway. Re boarding a wall is quick and cheap. IN the overall scheme of things a minimal part of the cost of retiling.

Not if its wavy it won't.

[Roger]

The message from Stuart contains these words:

I trust that the wall in question is constructed out of studwork rather than flimsy battens.

[Stuart]

Dunno what the definition of a "batten" is but surely it could be made of 2" x

2" . We don't know if the OP's wall is a self standing construction or if the battens are attached to an existing wall so if the latter then 2" x 1" could well be sufficient to support the PB . Stuart

[Roger]

The message from Stuart contains these words:

I think 2" x 2" is is oversize for a batten, particularly in thickness, but you could be right about the construction in this case; dry lined external wall rather than studwork interior wall.

batten

Concise Oxford

1 a long flat strip of squared timber or metal, esp. used to hold something in place or as a fastening against a wall etc.

Collins

1 a sawn strip of wood used in building to cover joints, provide a fixing for tiles or slates, support lathing, etc.