The right angle I meant was the bend in the springy bit with the contact, not the right angle next to the break. I think it's the one you say "cranks it to the slot".
I'm advocating straightening out the springy bit so that you don't have to add extra metal soldered to both broken parts to bridge the gap. The extra length got by straightening means you can overlap it to the other bit and just have one soldered joint.
You could add a bend near the contact to make it flat to its target again.