Removing the glass bit from a bulb.

I'm making up some LED replacements for the old car. Can't find ready made ones suitable - so I'm using the SBC base from an old bulb. Any tips on removing the glass other than by breaking it? Sometimes the glue gives way and it comes out complete - but never when you want it to. ;-)
--
*Why is the word abbreviation so long? *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/03/2011 17:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Hi Dave
Gentle application of heat, maybe? ISTR that some of the ones I'd played with had a heat-setting glue holding the bulb in place...
Adrian
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
says...

http://tinyurl.com/sbcled
--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That doesn't work here. But I want to use 1 watt Luxeons - for the under bonnet lights. The existing are 4 watt tungsten, so pathetic.
--
*There are two kinds of pedestrians... the quick and the dead.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/03/2011 17:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

dip it in Hydrofluoric ??
or more to the serious point, what chemical will attack and weaken the cement? brick acid?
--
Adrian C


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Surely, surely, surely, this is a job for an angle grinder?
--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't,
it turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/03/2011 17:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

http://www.ehow.com/how_7540585_put-ships-light-bulb-models.html
although an angle grinder is the approved uk.d-i-y method.
Colin Bignell
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

http://www.seo-doctor.co.uk/ehow-stop-polluting-googles-index-with-shite.html
Hmmm....
--
Adrian C


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Install the light bulb somewhere inaccessible, one where you can only reach the bulb with the tips of two fingers (just). Now try and remove bulb intact. It will now fall apart, or at least it usually does in my hands. ;-)
Tim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Excellent !
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 18/03/2011 17:25, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

best I can suggest is application of pressure on the base using a vice. Squeeze, release, twist, squeeze, release, twist
repeat until the glass breaks anyway.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Make sure you remove all the solder from the base contacts and ensure the wires are completely free.
It will make it much easier to remove the bulb intact when you manage to break the glue seal. Just a thought - the glue has to be heat resistant but what happens if you soak it in water? Or even try boiling it!
--

Terry

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

ultraleds.co.uk
I'd be surprised if they didn't have something
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In article

It's rather a specialised application. Most of those sort of LEDs are designed just to replace the existing tungsten. I want something much brighter - but the lamp housing wouldn't stand a larger tungsten.
--
*Everybody lies, but it doesn't matter since nobody listens*

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 19/03/2011 00:08, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It might be worth posting this question to candlepowerforums. There's loads of information on modding stuff using LEDs. Personally I'd be looking to use Cree XML's rather than the Luxeons. Do you really need to use the existing mount? Where are you planning to put the LED driver(s)?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I think the ones I have may well be Cree - they are star 1 watt types. Have had them for some time. I was originally intending using a driver I had lying around - which would drive the two in series. Hence trying to simplify things by making them plug in to the housings. But I've found some low cost and small (PCB only) drivers designed to fit inside a MR16 bulb - so 12 volt input. Which I reckon I can fit inside the housing. So I'll not need to use the SBC cap.
The driver is Ebay Item Number 150575654906. It's meant for 3 LEDs, but seems to drive the single 1 watt one ok. At 350mA. Left it on soak all night with a 14v input.
--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 20/03/2011 10:33, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

As I understand it giving the LED's too much voltage, which is probably what you're doing by only using 1, isn't too much of a problem. It's too much current that kills them. You driver is described as 12v but it doesn't say if that's input or output voltage, either way, if it works it will probably continue working.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The lamps I've seen don't use a 1 watt LED, but 3 smaller ones.

MR16 are LV bulbs so nominally 12 volt. But a transformer would probably chuck out rather more than that if not fully loaded. And, of course, it is AC rather than DC. Test show the LED to be drawing the correct current and not getting too hot off 14V DC - the most it should see in the car. So hopefully a cheap and cheerful solution for a non critical application.
--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Gently compress the body with the curved toothy bit of a pair of pliers moving round bit by bit IYSWIM , i.e. breaking the metal-glue seal
Usually works if you're gentle
--
geoff

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In article

Thing is it's the metal cap I want intact - not the glass. Breaking the glass leaves bits inside the cap - and the glue that holds it there. You can't be too brutal with removing that as you can damage the separate glass bit at the bottom of the cap fuse to insulate the contact.
--
*Women who seek to be equal to men lack ambition.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.