Removing the drum

[meow2222]

Thanks Andrew, I reckon thats whats going on here.

NT

[meow2222]

Well, its now unscrewed, after a short introduction to Mr. Mallet. Thank you all for helping with that. And now its on to the next problem... I cant get the old bearings out. The inner one I removed the various broken pieces of, but its outer ring is wedged firmly in place. The outer bearing is still in one piece, but does need replacing as its running quite rough... cant get that litlle sht out either. Done the wooden drift thing, hit it as hard as I dare (plastic tub) but no result. Now hth do i get this out. When I fixed these in the past I never bothered with anything with bearing trouble.

I've looked at a gear puller, that wont work. Looked at a slide hammer, but it wont give a symmetrical force on he bearing assy, which would be needed. Dont know what else there is.

thanks, NT

[tinnews]

A dremel with a grindwheel maybe? Unless of course you can apply a full sized angle grinder to it.

[Bob Eager]

This is the exact question that started me with this newsgroup! I think Ian Tilley answered it...and his answer worked for me. It was.....

Hit it harder.

Really....I used a 2lb club hammer (worrying about the plastic drum, too) and it came out OK.

Years ago, and it's still running.

[mike]

"Mark" wrote in news:jZu2h.40762$iq4.24816@newsfe1- gui.ntli.net:

He joined the Fisherwoman in my B/Bin ages ago.

I hope they're happy together! I am :-)

mike

[The Medway Handyman]

Thats "too" a torque of 48 ft/lbs not "with".

Any spanner or socket tool will loosen a car engines flywheel provided its long enough to give enough leverage and the person using it is strong enough. A torque wrench simply sets or measures the amount of torque that can applied, it donesn't magnify the torque at all.

Grunff is right by the look of it.

[The Medway Handyman]

This is getting more & more bizarre by the moment.

[The Medway Handyman]

I'd agree. I did the same - brute force & ignorance is the way ahead.

[Autolycus]

Hit it with your torque wrench. Or perhaps tighten an internal micrometer (49p this week from Aldi)really tight inside it and hit that, using some slip gauges (4p each, Lidl) to direct the blow. Or other traditional Liverpool engineering methods.

Any chance of making an expanding mandrel out of a large Rawlbolt, that would give you something to aim the big hammer at? Could you strut the drum against a wall with a baulk of timber so it doesn't wobble out of the way as you hit it?

[Grunff]

ROFL

[Guy King]

The message from "The Medway Handyman" contains these words:

I can do both! Anyway, professionals prefer to call it Percussive Maintenance.

[<me9]

to a torque, not too or two.

[meow2222]

ok.. I hope it survives. Thanks!

NT

PS if it doesnt, you will all be jointly and severally liable for my decision and my actions. ok? :)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It's extremely bad practice to use a torque wrench to *remove* anything. A breaker bar is the tool for this if your socket handle isn't long enough.

[Guy King]

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

It may be worth pointing out why this is! If you do a nut up to 100ftlbs a month or two later it may need twice that to undo it. That's where the problem lies - the often huge excess torque needed to remove stuck nuts which often exceeds the capabilities of the torque wrench.

[The Medway Handyman]

To/two/too true :-)

[Ron Lowe]

Whilst others have already given the basic answer: more force, there is a technique I have often used to press bearings into and out of castings where they are an interference fit.

It is important to only apply force to the outer rim of the bearing, and not apply any force across the bearing. What I do is find a socket which is a close ( but slightly under-gauge ) fit to use as a drift, and offer it up to the bearing outer race. Then clamp the whole thing in a vice, and press the thing in or out using the vice. The socket acts as a drifting tool, but only applying force to the outer shell. After tightening the vice to apply pressure, there is an initial BANG, then the seized bearing presses out easily.

Of course, this technique is only any good if you can get the assembly maneouvered to a vice, which almost certainly does not apply to this particular scenario.

[Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot]

*Whispers* Mate, leave it. You're wrong. That's not what they're for and you'll f*ck it up.

Si

[Andrew Gabriel]

It's in a metal collar, and you *MUST* keep it square as it starts to slide out. I didn't and broke the metal collar, with the result that new bearings are now rather loose in the collar.