Removing old boiler (1989) and HW cylinder, putting new one in kitchen and all pipe works - how much?

[kiich]

Hi Excuse the vague explanation on this - but i have limited knowledge on the ins and outs of central heating/hot water system with boilers...

Just had a BG guy come around to take a look at out old boiler - the adviser said it is out of production and is very old and suggested getting a new one - which I am happy to do.

He also mentioned that we will not be able to put a new boiler there to just replace it - because the flu to the roof is too small and it is illegal now to put new ones in the current place (in airing cupboard in

2nd bed room) without altering the existing hole and roof. again, i have no facts to back this up but taking his word for this one.

He also said that if we get a new combi boiler, we will also need to change the valves on the radiators for the combi - can someone tell me why?

So I am happy to: a) get a new boiler - pref. combi boiler b) move it into the kitchen and have the work done to drill hole for the flue etc c) have the pipe system re-done so that existing pipes going into HW cylinder etc can be changed for CH and HW to work with the new boiler d) get rid of the old boiler and HW cylinder

and he's obviously quoted me on this work - and it is as you expect very expensive.

But my question is - how much should i be looking at roughly for all of the work above?

I understand that it is a failry big job - and also hard to give me an estimate - but i am looking at a ball-park figure just to compare.

obviously getting another quote but wanted to know what to expect with regards to price including labour and parts PLUS estimate on the number of days for the job.

FYI, BG estimated me 2 to 3 days of work.

thanks

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd just make certain the combi you get can near match the performance of the storage system. A well designed storage system can always beat any combi at filling a bath. And the average combi will be *very* much slower, especially in winter.

[andrewpreece]

There are specs about the siting of flues: these are available on the web. The new generation of condensing boilers can put out a bit of a fog in the right weather - does your flue exit towards a nearby neighbour? Otherwise, I believe all flues nowadays are balanced ( that is , air is sucked in, and exhaust blown out, through the same coaxial pipe. Is yours a 4" diameter balanced flue?

What valves do you have at present? It is in the regs that all new CH installations should have a thermostat in the loop. If your radiators have all got TRV's ( thermo- static radiator valves ) on them, one ( typically in the hallway ) will have to have the TRV removed, so the thermostat ( also in the same room ) can control the CH sytem without fighting a TRV.

British Gas are infamous for telling people that their boilers should be replaced due to their age and lack of spares when in fact often the spares are readily available on the web. They are also infamous for charging something ridiculous like £3000 for an installation when an independent gas technician can do it for far less typically. They are also infamous for charging big bucks for combis that can be more cheaply bought on the web. Caution: I have had no dealings with BG, I am just repeating some of the stories I have seen on this newsgroup.

Andy.

[Set Square]

Are you *sure* you want a combi? There's no way I would get rid of my stored hot water system.

If you are replacing the boiler, it doesn't *have* to be a combi - it can continue to heat the radiators and the hot water in the same way as the existing one.

I assume that the recommendation to change the radiator valves is because the new system will be unvented (pressurised) whereas the existing system is pretty certainly vented. Old valves may well leak under the extra pressure.

Divide BG's price by about 2 to get a fair price.

[Doctor Drivel]

The flue and roof tile may be too small, so he may be right. Have the boiler in the same place and have a new tile fitted in the roof. Don't have the boiler in the kitchen, as it is such a silly place top put a boiler.

Part L of the building regs.

Good idea.

No, keep it where it is and extent the new flue into the roof.

Good idea. But! Make sure the boiler has a high flowrate. Combi's are rated in flowrate. What boiler did he mention: make & model? Try an Alpha CD50 high flowrate model.

Get him to quote on a high flowrate combi flued through the roof.

[Doctor Drivel]

Not so. Some combi's and multi-points can piss all over a tank and cylinder at bath filling.

[Matt]

I assume you do know how crap they are at filling baths/sinks/etc?

Maybe you are French and don't care ;-)

[Matt]

Only when you've been plumbing with plastic and a hacksaw

[Doctor Drivel]

This man is a pure idiot.

[Doctor Drivel]

Combi's are superior.

Why continue with a second rate system when he can have a high flowrate combi.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Drivel by name and Drivel by nature.

Quote practical values for practical homes.

As if.

[snip Drivel's advertising rubbish]

[Dave Plowman (News)]

[snip Drivel's lies]

Be nice to get him to learn about the use of apostrophes as well. Some chance.

[Doctor Drivel]

[Doctor Drivel]

[Tony Bryer]

It's a very sensible place to put a combi IMHO - next to no dead leg for the sink hot tap which is probably the one used most.

[A useful bonus of switching to a combi was realising that the hot water is now drinking quality so for rinsing rice etc just turn up the HW temp and rinse under hot tap]

[Doctor Drivel]

In a normal domestic house that extra few seconds is not worth talking about. You could put in a secondary circulation loop to have instant hot water at every tap (and save on water too) if that really bothers you.

And use to fill the kettle and keep the electricity bills right down.

[Set Square]

Because: a) A 'high flow rate' combi still won't fu]ill a bath as fast as a stored system b) It relies on on the mains being able to deliver a high flow rate - which may or may not be the case.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Leaflets stuffed in with my last water bill contained a warning about installing combi's associated with this last point. Check that the pressure and flowrate available are _well_ over the combi's minimum, to allow for future pressure reductions. I assume the water companies are getting a stream of complaints about not enough flowrate to operate combi's properly, as they are steadily reducing the water pressure to get the leak figures down and avoid being fined.

[Doctor Drivel]

Nonsense. Some can, and they gives showers thant no tank.cylidner system can. Next tripe.....

In most cases it can.

[Doctor Drivel]

In the last week or two London Water announced it is raising the pressure because of water leaks being repaired.