tomorrow.http://i52.tinypic.com/4gm9fn.jpg>> How about using a scissor jack between the left-hand big-thing-in-the-
Better still, combine the above with attempting to turn the bolt in- situ as well.
Borrow one of those hydraulic jaws of life spreader thingo's.
It depends where it is sticking. If it is corroded into place at the bolt end hitting the nut end will cause the bolt (especially if old and of slightly soft steel) to spread and bind more at a point inboard of that corrosion and stick harder. A friend of mine did this with some tapered keel bolts and eventually the keel had to be cut off completely to get them out.
If you are going to push rather than pull put all the bolts you can on the bolt end and leave only a mm gap between them and the material the bolt is in.. If you find your wellying is closing this gap but not moving the head stop immediately!
Usually the best strategy is to spend several days with the bolt and nut immersed in WD40 (which contrary to many opinions is an excellent releasing fluid). You will need to fabricate some sort of dam to hold the fluid in place. After this apply local heat from oxy acetylene and try to turn the bolt using an impact rather than constant force. If you can't get an air impact wrench in there use a stiff handle wrench and while applying force to it have someone (you trust) hit the wrench with a heavy hammer. Usually percussive force is far less damaging and much more likely to succeed than using constant force. Heat and impact are the key.
My memory being what it is I can't remember if this point has already been covered but if you want to protect the end of the bolt it might help if you screw the nut back on so the face of the nut is just proud of the end of the bolt. OTOH that might just lead to the thread stripping if the the bolt is really tight.
A hydraulic trolley jack would be able to exert considerable force if you could get it into position and could be left in position while attacking the bolt head by attempting to turn with a spanner and/or transverse belts with a sledge. Tapping the head of the bolt sideways could crush the rust interface enough to loosen the bolt.
Can you tell us a bit more about the structure of what you are trying to get the bolts out of?
Dave
It's not bad for releasing stuff but not as good as PlusGas IMHO. Try diesel as well. Good soaking, (both ends...), leave a week, give it wack both ends, try and turn via impact(*) both ways, soak again, leave a week repeat...
(*) Makes sure that the spanner or socket is a good fit, don't want to raound off the head. Maybe one of those modern sockets that act on the face rather than the corners of the bolt head.
I've shifted a lot of taper fit bolts though admittedly they're somewhat smaller on track rod ends. However, I have learned through bitter experience that applying force to the end of the bolt is the difficult way and frequently fails to work. On a number of occasions I've seen the end mushroomed so much it won't go through the hole. The best way is to apply some pressure to the bolt and then shock the outside of the tapered housing. I realise this may be difficult with something this big but I would try heat and a sledge hammer on the housing with weight on the puller/pusher. If things are corroded (they probably are) keep hitting as it shatters the rust bit at a time.
John
Aiui the correct way to do it is screw the nut on so it's flush with the end of the bolt. That way the load is equally shared and damage is minimised.
You don't say what is behind the nuts - only not enough room for a hammer (I wouldn't want to hammer the bolts directly anyway.). If there is anything good and solid behind the nuts - and depending how much thread there is to play with - either fit some heavy tube over the extra thread behind the nuts if there is any, or a suitably thick metal plate if there isn't. Then unscrew the nuts gradually so that they themselves load up the bolts with compression. Soak the whole lot as much as you can with Plus Gas and leave overnight. Tighten the nuts (backwards) against the bracing plate you made, and if there has been any bolt movement make a thicker brace plate or shim the one you have, so that you can move the nuts back down the thread and maximise the amount of it you can use for your next push. When you have all the bolts loaded as much as you dare, hit the other end with a hammer or impact driver, and they may well jump out.
S
Seconded: you won't want to bother with WD40 other than for an occasional spray (I use it to spray on hot metal as part of the 'heat spanner' method - especially good for releasing blind bearings), once you have used Plus Gas for soaking seized metals.
S
It sounds to me that the OP should construct some sort of custom "press" clamped to the bolted object with a large HT screw (a bit less than an inch diameter), rather along the lines of a hub puller, to force the recalciltrant bolts through.
Well, I've given up. It's just too hard! Someone else can do it. Here's a removed bolt:
Here's the cylinder block. The nuts are slackened on the bolts to be removed:
It's a cylinder for a steam engine. It needs its 100 year service!
You haven't said whether or not you had any luck trying to turn the bolts.
I used a 1 & 3/4" socket with a long extension and it wouldn't turn.
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If there is adequate access I would suggest trying to 'rock' the cylinder by hitting a block of wood against the upper part at different points. You might even be able to use a heavy copper hammer directly if you can do so without risking damage.
A second pair of hands using a bar (or bars) to lever under the loosened nuts would also help.
Cic.
Have you also asked on uk.rec.engines.stationary? Can't be an uncommon problem and that is the scale of machinery they like playing with.
Not quite that big in general and mostly internal combustion not hot fog. B-) I'm not sure they will come up with anything that hasn't already been said in here.
Are there any restrictions on access to the bolt heads[1]? I'd be tempted to try a pneumatic impact driver to get the bolt rotating before trying to press it out.
[1] I note you say that access is restricted but that seemed to refer to the end where the nut was.
There is just enough room to put a socket over the bolt head. I don't think we have an impact driver. I shall enquire about that.
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