We just purchased a new/used house. The kithchen counter is a ~ 5 x
10 foot (2 inch high) oak butcher block surface. With time, it now
has several "stained" spots (sorta black areas) and many scratches.
I would like to resurface that counter, and I am looking for
recommendations. Ala would one prep the surface with a cabinet (aka
card) scraper, or maybe a tool akin to a Stanley #80 scraper? Other
Once the surface has been prepped, what would be a recommended surface
cover - ala a specific oil, where food prep will occur.
I am retired, so time is not a key issue. I do want the finished
surface to look nice and last.
I would be most appreciative for any/all advice -dave
You might need to be careful with a scraper, the grain direction can
swap with each stave of the butcher block, so what works nicely in one
area can be a bit rough in neighbouring areas.
I've just sanded and varnished some oak butcher-block, but as a desk not
in a kitchen, used polyvine wax finish satin varnish, pleased with the
result, when it says apply sparingly it really means it, I then
literally gave it a single wipe with 0000 wire wool before a second
coat, even more sparingly.
dries in an hour or two, you are supposed to keep water splashes off it
for a few days after drying, which might be tricky in a kitchen.
On Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 10:54:45 PM UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:
I think it unlikley it is genuine butcher block. The 'butcher block' work t
ops I have seen are more what I would call strip laminations. (i.e.) the gr
ain runs parallel with the surface instead of showing end grain surfaces. I
t amazes me how people can get away with incorrect terminology like this. B
it like all those supposed mahoganies out there.
Totally unsuited for the application hence the o.p's problem with stains an
d re-finishing. Formica is a much superior surface for a kitchen worktop. T
hats genuine formica not melamine surfaced board, i.m.h.o. Wifey got marble
last time. More overkill. As for cast concrete work tops, in the name of g
od, utter madness.
As for re-finishing. I would take a good random orbit sander to it. Start w
ith 120g if that doesn't do it drop to 80g then work your way up through th
e grits. Personally I would stop at 320g but keep going if you want a super
Finish with a two pack epoxy if you have spray equipment and the patience t
o mask off the surrounding area,
Failing tha a good polyurethane woul be the next choice avoid water based f
inished like the plague.
Most of them will never have seen a real butcher block.
It has to be end grain or it will just have loads of bits coming off
every time you use a cleaver or even just a big knife.
When I had a school time job working in a butchers it was cleaned using
a metal scraper that looked like a scrubbing brush and then washed and
scrubbed. This is why they are always uneven as it removes a bit every day.
They are also about 150mm thick and weigh a ton.
I expect they are bloody expensive too.
On Thursday, 18 May 2017 21:55:22 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
Actually you can get end grain slabs very cheaply as it is going to be scrape-scrubbed with hot water every day so there is no need to dry it. The problem is finding a supply of beech or sycamore or whatever they use.
But back to the problem the way to hide the stains is to use it so often you never notice tham. It becomes like a shalk board after lots of use you don't see the chalk for the black board.
Wash it clean and you can see that someone had been writing on it just before the next lesson.
The black staining could be from iron/steel combined with moisture and
this is best bleached out with oxalic acid - available on ebay and
possibly chemists. Search on wood working sites for application and
This does not happen with stainless steel so eliminate plain steel and
cast iron from coming into contact with the oak.
If it's solid butcher block all the way through have you considered
turning it upside down and using the presumably pristine underside ?
You might need to consider some treatement for any attachment
points screwholes etc. But these could be widened to say 10mm
filled with dowelling* and could be turnednto a "feature".
Even if this isn't possible in the end there's no harm in taking
it off and seeing what you've got.
dowelling comes in various diameters with matching drill bits
available and can be chosen to suit.
On Thu, 18 May 2017 10:42:30 +0100, "michael adams"
Indeed it is solid oak. ~2 inch thick. I think the prior owner
installed it maybe 28 years ago. There is a sink that precludes
flipping the surface, to have an unused surface on top - good idea if
it was possible.
Clean the stains with oxalic acid. If you are going to use it for
food preparation apply several coats of liquid paraffin. Clean and
repeat every few months.
Do not use varnishes, epoxies or any other surface coating.
Do people use the actual worktop to prepare food?
Well, they obviously do - I had some friends stay, and they chopped veg
etc on the solid wood kitchen worktop - leaving dozens of deep
scratches. But why don't they use a chopping board? (I asked but they
all denied it!)
I wouldn't fancy letting say raw fish come into contact with even a
supposedly benign worktop finish - say Danish oil. Always use a chopping
Quite (although I don't cook with meat). I use those plastic ones
nowadays, and put them through the dishwasher.
It'd be an unusual kitchen that had *worktops* dedicated to particular
food preparation, though.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.