Recommendations for GU10 50W LED replacements?

[Biggles]

I'm looking to replace my kitchen GU10 50W halogens (originally with 50 degree beam) with LEDs. Can anyone actually vouch for a particular make/model being as bright as a 50W halogen? I know from experience that some LEDs are better than others (I have a B&M headlight [with single 3W Cree LED I think?] on my bike which gives out an awesome beam) but given that most marketing blurb is exaggerated I don't trust the claims in adverts. I'm not that bothered about matching the beam angle - I've had to replace the original 50 degree bulbs with 35 or 40 degree ones in the past and it doesn't seem to make much difference.

I don't really want to pay more than £15 for a bulb but might do if I was convinced that it would really fit the bill.

Or as LED technology is developing rapidly should I wait just a bit longer before looking to upgrade?

Thanks Biggles

[Tabby]

Sounds like you have some very optimistic ideas about LEDs. Forget it.

NT

[Tim Watts]

I was looking at some LED bulbs at lampspecs. They're coming on, but the output of some of the GLS format topped out at 400 lumens, about 1/4 of other technologies in the same case (that was a cusory glance - not an exhaustive comparision).

But I do think they will get there. Remember the early Philips ELs (I think) of the 80's - heavy expensive and crap. For all that people say about CFLs, if you buy a decent make in a larger (super GLS) format, you can get quick turn on, decent light (my Prolite spiral 30W are *much* brighter than a 100W bulb) and reasonable life.

Now think about LEDs 20 years ago...

[dennis]

If you want that much light from LED you will have to wait. You need about 10 watts of LED light to match a 50W halogen.

You may also need to replace the fittings. LEDs will not last if run hot inside a closed fitting like halogen will.

[Gordon Henderson]

Go for it now if you can afford it.

I replaced mine with 3 watt units - however while they're bright enough, the coverage wasn't as good - so I put in a 3rd one in an area which previously had 2 halogens - so 9 watts instead of 100...

I used these:

there are many others on the same pages there - some with wider beam angles and they now have a "soft white" too..

But like CFL's the estimated of light output are sometimes a bit conservative, so rather than go with the wattage equivalents just put in what you need.

I still have one unit with 2 GU10's - one is one of those LED ones, the other the original halogen - which is very yellow next to the bright white of the LED one... (So white vs. yellowish might make it appear brighter anyway) The LED one also takes a measurable fraction of a second to come on too - I guess the PSU gets up to speed before turning on the LEDs. It's full brightness, but a 1/4 of a second after putting the switch on.

Gordon

[Andy Dingley]

CPC are under 3 quid list for GU10 LEDs, so at least it's a low risk strategy.

IMHO LEDs are now quite decent for kitchens. They're bright, affordable, and the colours aren't an issue. OTOH, they still don't have decent flood coverage, so you need twice as many as previously. This means that 12V LEDs replacing halogens on a continuous track is quite easy: just add more holders, as the power isn't an issue and they don't run hot so you don't even need such fussy holders any more. However for GU10s, (which are unlikely to be on tracks) it would still be an issue to increase their numbers like this.

[rbel]

TLC now have some 38 degree coverage 4.9w LEDs in white/warm white which I am thinking of trying in our kitchen.

[Vortex10]

These are the best I have found.

claims are plausible.

[Stephen]

I have a load of GU10 light fittings throughout the house.

With the exception of the lounge, I have GE 7 watt CFL lamps instead of 50 watt halogens. They do the job but can take a while to warm up from cold in winter.

Now regarding the lounge, I've had to carry on using 50 watt halogens as there is a dimmer switch. Currently theres 8 50watt bulbs so thats a total load of 400 watts, clearly a lot of potential to get that down to say around

56 watts if the 7 watt GE CFL's are anything to go by.

What can I switch to without (a) asking the bank manager for a mortgage or (b) replace the dimmer with a switch as SWMBO wants to keep this

Stephen

[Alan]

In message , Tim Watts wrote

A had a couple go bang after a relatively short life.