Re: Plating/trapping stacked joists with ply

[Tim W]

The Medway Handyman wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 12:13

They make structural joists out of what looks to be 11mm OSB, so that > would prolly do the job.

And cheaper by ba factor of 2... I've just read up on OSB - looks like it would do nicely.

What's the difference between OSB2 and OSB3 - anything I should care about?

I'd go for glue & screw myself, using a gap filling polyurethane. Something like:

?utm_source=Tooltray&utm_medium=Froogle&utm_campaign=Shopping?Haven't used such things, but that looks like a very good idea. With that, the entire assembly should be stronger than plain 8x2 given the ply itself will contribute to stiffness as well as prevent the original 2 timbers sliding.

Thanks Dave!

Cheers

Tim

[PeterC]

General purpose applications in dry conditions. Furniture and interior fitments ¡E OSB/2 Load-bearing applications in dry conditions ¡E OSB/3 Load-bearing applications in humid conditions ¡E OSB/4 Heavy-duty load-bearing applications in dry or humid conditions

From:

[Dave Osborne]

It's all here:

2.3 and Annexe 2B

There are different types and different service classes.

Quote from a previous thread:

It seems [...] that the average Builder/Builder's Merchant has cottoned on to the fact that you need Service Class 2 product and OSB3 product should be marked as such (i.e. service class 2), so you don't need to explicitly know it's OSB3.

also

has good stuff

and the thread I referred to above:

[The Medway Handyman]

I was thinking of

[Bruce]

You have *never* posted anything remotely helpful here. You post only out of selfish self-interest.

[Tim W]

Dave Osborne wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 13:12

That's cleared it up nicely - thanks to you both.

Cheers

Tim

[Tim W]

Bruce wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 12:52

As John Rumm said, it's obviously basically serviceable. I'm just making it a bit better and certainly no worse, so I'm not at all bothered about certifications. I have the floor up, the crap is cleared and there's no pipes/wires in the way, so my motto is: if it's easy, why not... It will never be this trivial to do again once the services go in. Simples ;-)

[Tim W]

The Medway Handyman wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 14:15

Thanks Dave - if that's what you've used, then that's what I'll get.

Cheers

Tim

[Simon Stroud]

If it's anything like the polyurethane "Gorilla Glue" which I have used a few bottles of recently, it's very advisable to wear gloves. If you get any of it on your hands and it dries, it can't be washed off or removed with any skin-friendly solvents so you just have to leave it for about 4 days to wear off. Not handy if, like I was, you are going through an "attending interviews at possibly short notice" phase. Meeting and greeting strangers with hands that look extremely brown and dirty takes some explaining.

Regards, Simon.

[Tim W]

Roof wibbled on Saturday 02 January 2010 12:42

I'd forgotten I killfiled you until Bruce quoted this.

If I needed an engineer for anything, I could really do with one to help me design adequate ventilation paths through a complicated timber structure of

2 roofs and a dormer wall, where the stock "as new" solutions are wholly inapplicable. But as I don't know any (or have any clue how to find one or evaluate them) I expect I'll muddle through.

As for the floor - its works, I will make it work a little better (possibly a lot better) and guaranteed it will not be any the worse, so no, I don't need an engineer for this. Your advice might be on track if I were doing the loft conversion and had to make the compromise the original builders made and get it past the BCO, but this is irrelevant here.

Just after a few practical tips to perhaps save me from overdoing it with relatively expensive 18mm ply.

Practical tips received with thanks - they just halved the materials cost (OSB 11mm is about 10 quid a sheet rather than 18mm ply which is 25 quid.)

[The Medway Handyman]

I've not used it in your application. Half lapping 4 x 4 newell posts onto

6 x 2 deck frames. Used with a few coach bolts its 'kin strong.

[The Medway Handyman]

Good point, exactly my experience.

[Neil]

Schools back this week so Ruth wont be back until Feb.

[Tim W]

Rick wibbled on Tuesday 05 January 2010 22:38

Rick - this is a very good point I hadn't thought about. Thanks!

Tim

[geraldthehamster]

It's worth having some of the solvent used to clean PU foam guns to hand. Then if you do get any PU glue (or foam) on your hands, you can clean it off before it cures. Obviously the worst thing you can do is try to wash it off with water ;-)

Otherwise it attracts the dirt and cures with the moisture in your hands.

Cheers Richard