Cheat ?
How about drilling a hole in the crack so you *can* get the nozzle in ?
You drill a hole, and vacuum it out. What are you up to, BTW?
J.B.
indeed, but thats a phenomenal amount of work. I'm talking 10-20m of cracking here.
Regards, NT
Hi Jerry, its structural repairs. There has to be a better approach than drilling holes all along 10-20m of cracks though. Not quite as easy as fitting studding.
If I had my way I'd just remove and replace the mortar, but I dont on this occasion.
Regards, NT
ISTR something about a bowing wall, from some time ago. In what way does injecting resin into a small crack (ooh-er!) make a structural repair? Where is the crack, how is it affecting whatever structure?
If it doesn't matter about appearance, and the resin is runny enough, you could use a large rubber bung or similar - the sort used by home winemakers, with a hole through the middle. Ensure the nozzle of the gun fits tightly into the hole, you don't want leaks around where you push it in. When you've fitted the bung (or whatever) to the nozzle, press the bung/nozzle up on the crack, so that the hole in the middle of the bung is over the crack. When it's pressed home, squeeze in some resin, then move the thing along, press, squirt, repeat.... I have used this technique with PVA/water in a squeezy bottle (using some foam pipe lagging taped firmly on) to repair a badly crazed plaster- and-lath ceiling or three. In that case, it was very important NOT to rake out the crack, 'else the seal of the "bung" to the ceiling was no good, and PVA would cascade along the raked-out vee instead of being forced up the crack, showering down all over the place.
Please, gentle readers - no comments about cracks, nozzles, etc. Will anyone heed this? I bet (not)!
J.B.
Hi,
What is the crack in? Is is on a horizontal or vertical surface?
cheers, Pete.
brick walls. The cracks run vertically, and I dont get to choose other methods, else I'd just replace the mortar.
Cheers, NT
Some of the cracks sre not so small lengthwise. Its not the wall from before, that was fixed a diferent way. At this point the method of repair is impractical to change, due to legal issues, so resin injectin it will be. And it'll work fine, once I figure out how to get the sutff in :)
now I like that one, ty :)
not a hope! Bungs, showering... Mary where are you? :)
Regards, NT
Hi,
To inject the resin it might be best to get some small dia thin wall tube from a model shop that will fit onto the nozzle, and flatten the end. Something to mask the wall would be helpful, Copydex (liquid latex) might do if it doesn't soak into the brick or react with the resin.
It might be worth thickening the resin with something like Cabosil (fumed/fumigated silica), to stop it running out. If it's then too thick to inject it might be easier to inject it using a grease gun or trowel it in with a small trowel or spatula.
If the crack might open further I'd just leave it, a filled up crack that has opened further just confirms the wall hasn't stablilised. Although clear silicone might be another alternative to resin, it could cope with some movement without cracking again.
cheers, Pete.
You get one of the resin syringe kits (from Maplin I think, else CPC). Expensive on resin unless it can be refilled but does the job.
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