Re: Heating & hot water crisis - advice sought

Jul 03, 2003 4 Replies


>


>> Yesterday morning my partner was using the hot water when the Main
>> Mersey kettled and the pressure increase blew apart one of the
>> compression joints on the water intake pipe. The resultant torrent of
>> water flooded the bathroom and kitchen underneath.
>
>See:
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Yep, sounds very similar to what happened to mine!


> I called out a local gas company who attended that afternoon. The
>> engineer suggested a replacement multi-point water heater as this
>> wouldn't be significantly more than any replacement parts. I was
>> happy with this as the heater is about 20 years old and clearly >> outdated.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the shock of the pipe rupturing appears to have caused
>> a small leak in the gas supply pipe to the water heater.
>
>I doubt it -- leak was probably there before.
>

Yes, I think you're probably right.


> I'd value any advice or guidance on what to do because at the moment I
>> have no hot water or heating at all :-(
>
>It seems to me all you really need at the moment is a new multipoint
>and a new gaspipe feeding it and the old one disconnect at the supply.
>You don't have to rip the old gaspipe out, and you probably won't be
>allowed to put the new pipe where the old one was anyway. If you change
>the boiler later, you can still keep the multipoint either as a backup
>for power cuts or boiler breakdowns, or for your regular hot water supply.
>I did that, then you don't need a high flowrate combi boiler.

Good point. I didn't consider putting a new gaspipe in to feed the new multipoint. Fairly easy route: straight up the inside of the cupboard under the stairs from the meter to the landing then under the bathroom floor and up to the multipoint.


It should take only a couple of hours to put in a new multipoint, plus
>however long it takes routing a new gas pipe through. The current Main
>multipoints are designed to be able to hang on the flues of their
>predecessors, so that makes installation easy and you won't need a flue
>kit. When I did it a few years ago, they had 3 models, and I would go
>for at least the middle one with thermostatic control (sorry, don't
>recall the names now).

Do you mean the Thames?

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How easy was it to fit?


Thanks for your input Andrew.



Trevor.


I didn't realise they could also heat water - very interesting!

I'd need to put a tank in somewhere but it's an attraction option.

Thanks,

Trevor.

New one has protection against boiling -- the pilot thermocouple is connected via a thermal cutout which would cut off the gas control valve if the temperature of the heat exchanger gets too hot.

which I probably couldn't justify personally, but local supplier didn't have the Thames in stock anyway and I needed it that day.

Very easy, but I'm afraid I don't recommend you fit it yourself unless you are familiar with the Gas safety regs and fully competent to do gas work, in which case you probably wouldn't ask. The water and gas pipework needed rearranging as the inlets/outlets were not in the same place as its predecessor (a Main Medina IIRC).

That's what I've decided to do. I'm waiting on a couple of quotes for installation of a new J&S warm air unit.

The same idea had occurred to me. However, the gas engineer said it was not possible to install a combi and only use the DHW circuit because if the combi overheated it needed to dump the heat into the radiator circuit.

Any views on this?

A combined header/DHW tank isn't that space consuming. The biggest attraction for me is that a hot water cylinder has a backup electric immersion for use if ever there's a problem with the gas.

Trevor.

You won't regret it.

It depends on the model.

You can do this by using an instant hot water heater. If you want back up fit an in-line electric instant shower heater. This will give a trickle of a shower, but fine for backup. Juts turn one valve and open another and it is brought into action. It can be fitted in the loft, or in a cupboard, out of the way. It can also be in the outlet line of a combi or muti-point with hot combi water passing throught it when switched off, then no valves to turn to bring it in, just switch it on. Piped up right, it can do the whole house, but only supplying one tap at a time - fine for backup.

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