Re: Bending T&E

[Tim Mitchell]

In article , Fishter writes

I know other people must have solved this problem. > >How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch >box?! > >Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected >at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend into >recess behind switch housing. > >I've just about given up and taped the damn shut! >

I think that getting the wires the right length is the key. Trying to fold up any extra wire is a no-no. Hold up the switch plate and work out exactly where all the wires are going, then cut them so there is just enough for you to get in and tighten the screws. You should only need the switch plate 20mm (or less) away from the wall to put the wires in and tighten the screws.

Also having the right depth of backbox helps, you get extra deep backboxes for cooker switches.

(eventually managed mine at the 3rd attempt)

[Andrew Gabriel]

In the case of something like a cooker switch with thick cables...

o Use a deep box so there is plenty of spare space to fold a little excess cable in, without the cable being trapped tightly anywhere (except in the terminal!).

o Thread the cable down the channel so the live and neutral conductors are the right way round to more easily be located in their terminals, rather than all having to crossover in the box.

[BigWallop]

It might be because you've got to much inside the box and it;s not allowing the plate to go far enough back. No matter which direction the cables enter the box, it is best to trim the tails to just to the longest length of the box. So, for example, the box is meant to take a two gang socket and the tails enter from one of the short side, entry points. The tails would be trimmed just passed the opposite short side. You shouldn't need any more than that in the box, as it doesn't need to exit the box again.

Also, try to take as much of the outer insulation off and allow yourself to work on just the inner conducting cores (the red and black) easier than having them all stuck together inside the box. Once the front plate is screwed into place, then the whole thing shouldn't need touched again for years, so who sees it.

Remember to use green/yellow over sleeve on all of the bare earth connecting centres, leaving none of it exposed unless it is being connected in to a insulated fixed terminal.

[Fishter]

That's a great idea. Unfortunately my unit is in the back of a cupboard. Don't ask, I didn't put it there... (and I'll kill the 'leccy who did!)

[Tim Mitchell]

In article , Fishter writes

In that case, contortionism is called for. Or maybe you could send a small child into the cupboard to do the job. You could borrow mine but she's only 2 and might get red & black the wrong way round.

[Fishter]

These are simply broken through the plaster, so shoving them back down the channel is a no-no :-(

[Fishter]

I'll give that a go tomorrow. I've given up for the night. The 'project' aim was to attach the box to the wall. At the moment it's just hanging on the cables. I had to undo the connections, then try and remake them with the box screwed to the wall. When it wouldn't go back together and SWMBO wanted to make dinner, I hurriedly removed from wall, and managed to squash all back into box, although I have a suspicion that some of the cable popped out the back as I was doing this.

It would have been nice if the orignal fitter had used that!

[Tinklemagoo]

What depth of socket box are you useing?

I used 47mm depth socket box no problems fitting cable into box/screw holes. Also removing outer cable insulation to just level with rubber grommet entering socket box should make cables easier to fit.

And use 35mm depth ones for all electrical sockets instead of the 25mm which seem to be fitted as standard 35mm gives easier cable fitting/wiring.

[Fishter]

It looks like 47mm. I'll need to try removing all the outer insulation and giving it another go. Added to my problems is the fact that I have to get two conductors into one connector, one for the hob, one for the oven. Is it possible to get switches with two terminals?

[Phil Addison]

If it's a 'fitted kitchen' cupboard, as opposed to a built-in, it should be possible to remove the cupboard to gain access.

-- Phil Addison The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at

NOSPAM from address to reply

[Toby]

And there lies the rub. Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

[Toby]

And there lies the rub. Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

[Toby]

And there lies the rub. Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

[Fishter]

Probably impossible, without removing the worktop and hob (which I'm trying to connect).

I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow.