First, a fiddle. It has a piezo bridge pickup but has its own preamp, both made
by Fishman. Only needs amplifying outdoors.
Second, a traditional Japanese WX7 and VL70m pair. Yhe WX7 is a midi keyboard
that looks and plays like a clarinet, the VL70m is a "Virtual Acoustic Tone
Gnerator" that produces, apart from others, passable bassoon and bass clarinet
sounds. Runs off 12v.
Yes. I understand that these, along with other percussion instruments, produce
quite a lot of peak energy.
I've been using someone else's "Pignose" 20 watt amp. It has a single 6.5" cone
that clearly doesn't manage some of the higher harmonics. Playing the
instruments through the home hi-fi (ish), they sound very much like the real
thing. Played through the Pignose, except in the octave around middle C, they
both sound like ....... The upper ranges of the clarinet and bassoon sounding
very electronic and similar. Mind you, it still sounds better than a Yamaha
"portable pa" box.
The advantage, I thought, of the car speakers was their relatively wide
frequency response and compactness.
I should have said the speakers are actually only the drivers. I don't think
fibreglass would work very well for a cabinet unless it was very thick.
I don't want to play under water, the dancers get a bit soggy and rebelious. I
just want to be able the resist the odd shower without wrecking the cones.
Is that a type of battery? I assume it is by the 'ah' description. A 100%
efficient 200 watt amp running at full power would flatten it in minutes.
And car booster amps are anything but 100% efficient.
For a reasonable portable outdoor system which will run for a couple of
hours reliably, you're looking at a decent sized car battery - say about
45 Ah. You don't want to flatten the battery if it's a lead acid type as
this will shorten its life.
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW 12
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:27:48 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman
Sealed Lead Acid
Indeed, I don't expect to need much more than 10-15 watts. It's just all I have
at the moment is 100 watts. If all works well I may well change it, but not
unless I have to.
This is not "continuous" music like playing a record but a single instrument. It
makes a lot of difference to the power consumption. I've run a 20watt amplifier
for 4 sessions of 2 hours on an old 4ah SLA.
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 10:27:48 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman wrote:
Yes, a "Sealed Lead Acid" type. Commonly found in alarms systems for
backup power and in small UPSs.
Quite, my commercial UPS has two 12v 7A/Hr batteries in series. It's
currently telling me I have an uptime of 4 minets at 82% load or about
Unless it's in your homebrew standby power system. B-)
A proper "leisure" battery will survive deep discharge and are
available in SLA format. You do need to take care with charging
compared to an open wet battery.
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Sadly car speakers don't come with proper specs, the best I've found show
"frequency response" and "sensitivity". I would hope that they are designed for
fairly small enclosures but I've seen a frequency response quoted of 30Hz -
That's just what I wanted to know.
The one's I've got have an add on grille, presumably to protect them from foot
damage in a car door.
I found some useful stuff on making fibreglass speaker enclosures and other
aspects of car hifi which would be applicable to you here:
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