I've got a couple of awkward bleed screws. All the screws are direct into the back of the radiator so not easy to get at and I've fractured a couple of cheapo keys.
As a last resort I'd like to get a stronger key - what should I go for? Draper Zinc?
I think all the ones I've broken over the years have been zinc, I'd pick either of the brass type that Wickes show, don't think I've managed to break either of those
Brass with a large finger grip (if they will fit).
In order of strength: steel, brass, zinc & such alloys, plastic.
NT
Maybe you need one of these?
Rear Access Radiator Vent Bleed Key Tommy Bar
Tim
I use a drum key. Same size recess but designed to be used for tightening percussion heads. Thin, strong surround so it gets into awkward small apertures but with a rather longer handle than the typical radiator key so it might be a bit of a bugger going round the back - IYSWIM
Nick
I have a brass one with "wings", they don't hurt my fingers like the smaller ones do.
In the past I have snapped the head off a stiff vent screw and had to replace the radiator. I was probably using pliers to increase leverage, but it is something to think about.
What square radiator plug? :(
so what is the fitting?
If it's a slot then a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 inch ratchet handle or a right angled screwdriver If a hex shaped hole then a cut down hex/allen key with a socket/ratchet or just the hex key
A decent tight fitting socket from a small socket set. Made of tool steel rather than chocolate.
We had one like that (siezed bleed screw, positioned at the back). It was only an inch or so from the wall and impossible to get anything other than a key on to, so the rad would have to come off the wall one way or another.
The rad was a bit rusty anyway, just a single panel, and Toolstation were selling brand new double-panel radiators for under £10 (and still are), I just replaced the whole thing.
snipped-for-privacy@please.invalid (AnthonyL) wrote in news:5db09d2e.37820718 @news.eternal-september.org:
With most keys it is better to file of the countersunk lead-in as this wastes some of the gripping area and prevents you getting further onto the square of the screw.
Remove the screw and put some grease or something on and don't over tighten.
+1.
I?ve never understood why so many of the brass keys in particular have the socket countersunk (thus reducing the contact area).
Tim
Possibly it helps with manufacture in that the cheap brass item doesn't need extra manufacturing processes.
It probably helps locating the key on the valve especially is there is any rust or the valve has been slightly mangled with pliers etc.
I must admit, I prefer the ones with the bleed valves on the ends. Easier to access and you can change the whole bleed valve if the needle gets stuck.
SteveW
I have never come across a bleed valve that goes all the way in until the head is against the radiator. They normally have a pointy bit that seals on the end and making contact with the head would stop them working. Therefore a small chamfer makes bugger all difference to contact area and does make them easier to make and use.
Removing the chamfer increases the chance of all the square being in contact and not twisting the end off or ruining the key.
It's as per photo at:
But that *is* a square radiator plug/bleed valve. I wouldn?t use a hex socket on it though. Too much chance of rounding it off. The key I posted a link to earlier should work on the ones behind the radiator.
Tim
Tim
Very short square - hence importance of filing the chamfered end off the key - otherwise it won't fully engage.
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