Question about replacing an internal door.

[AL_n]

I want to replace an internal door. I have done this before, but this time, I want to ask other peoples' opinions about technique...

My question is: do you remove the door-stop lath before you fit the new door, and then refit the lath so that it butts up perfectly to the new door...

OR...

Do you fit the new door, attempting to get it to butt up perfectly to the door-stop lath, in the hope that you'll succeed, thereby avoiding the paint touching-up palaver...?

If the latter, can you offer any tips on succeeding in this option?!

TIA

Al

[The Medway Handyman]

I do the latter & it usually works - unless the new door is significantly thinner or thicker. Measure both.

[Cash]

Definately YES - it maks life easier. Once removed, tack it back on in the approximate position as this helps when cutting the door to fit the frame (leaving a 'penny joint on two sides and the top). [1]

In forty years of playing with these things, I have never managed to replace an internal door without removing at least two of the stops - besides, I'll lay odds that the new door will be a slighly different shape to the other one (bowed, twisted - or even straighter etc).

From experience. remove them and fit brand new ones and redecorate the door and frame as one - as it will all look the same, rather than have a shiny new door and a faded door frame.

[1] You can use the stops to support the door when you 'push' into the opening and temporarily wedge it to check the fit - and mark the door where it needs altering.

As a matter of interest, John Rumm may have done a Wikki article on one, so have a look there as well.

Cash

[John Rumm]

The former. If painted, then cut down the corners with a sharp knife first to minimise any paint flaking etc.

Not really. There are so many things that can conspire to make things not line up, that its usually more trouble than its worth. I suppose if you chop the hinges into the door you can always offer it up and see how is going to fit, but don't be surprised to find it thicker, thinner, warped, less warped etc.

Various other stuff on door hanging:

[AL_n]

John Rumm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Thanks... that sharp knife tip is a good idea. For some reason, I hadn't thought of that. Once the door stops are removed, would you then run over the area with a belt sander, to flatten the high points, grooves, etc., prior to refitting the lath?

Al

[AL_n]

Thanks to all for the replies.

John Rumm wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The knife idea is a good one. Once the laths are removed, would you then run over the areas with a belt sander to remove the grooves/ridges left in the paintwork, prior to replacing the laths?

Al

[Cash]

Good idea.

Cash

[Roger Mills]

You don't always have the option! Most of my internal doors have rebated frames rather than removable stops. Even with removable stops, I would attempt to it without removing them - to avoid disturbing the paintwork

- unless the old door was badly twisted.

The trick is to hang the door initially with only one screw holding each hinge to the frame in the centre hole of the hinge. You then see how much you need to move the top or bottom in or out - as appropriate - to line up with the stops. You then re-hang it, using screws in the *other* hinge holes first - fitting the centre screw last, and allowing it to re-align itself.

[Cash]

Not much option with rebated stops Roger, and a bugger to sort out if someone has eased (mutilated usually) the rebates to accommodate a 'bent' door - you have my sympathies!

The sort of job I always seemed to get as an apprentice, where my old apprentice master would say "you need the bloody experience and I don't" and leave me to my own devices and cussing him blue flashes. :-)

Cash