Plastic waste pipe

I wish there was such a thing as a "gooseneck" piece of pipe to enable a slight adjustment to be made.
Any experience of the flexible length made by McAlpine?
Anyone succefully applied a bit of heat to crank a bit of pipe?
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On 12/06/2019 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:

Not specifically that make but I used a but as a temp measure some years back. It was in place while I was working on the kitchen. It did the job without any issues. I'm not sure I'd trust in somewhere I could see etc, just in case it did leak.
Sometimes a couple of fittings with a slight angle, set to cancel it out, but then adjusted to give the 'nudge' you want works. You do need the space for them.
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Sorry - not Gooseneck - but a sort of offset to enable a pipe run to re- align by a couple of inches without sharp bends.
(New waste to old hole)
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On 12/06/2019 19:47, DerbyBorn wrote:

Yes, I guessed that. The two fittings idea is ideal for that. Pop into a shop and have a play.
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I have realised that what I need is something that goes against the trend - I want a shower waste with a lower outlet. Most are made to be as "low profile" as possible - I want the water to go out through a hole halfway down the thickness of a joist and it is fairly close to the joist and I want it free flowing.
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There used to be some kind of stuff like that floppy plastic used for rainwater butt tops. I think there is one on my Kitchen sink. Its been in there for over 20 years now and has not leaked. However I suspect its got some recent reason why its not used, toxic to spiders or something.. grin. Brian
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On 12/06/2019 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:

I have a flexible pipe between my bog and the down pipe inlet and it works well. To gain more room between a wall and the side of the pan I had to offset the outlet of the pan and the inlet of the downpipe by around 3cm so they were not in line. It also allows the close coupled pan to be installed much easier in that you can fit the flexible pipe both ends before pushing the pan towards a back wall. The lesson I learnt was to use the correct size (it comes in a couple of lengths). Too long and you cannot compress it enough and/or the bends get too tight.
When re-modelling the kitchen the sink was moved and I also have a short length of flexible plastic waste pipe between the trap and the previous pipe waste outlet. It has been in place for over a year without problems.
Both flexible plastic waste pipes came from Screwfix so its whatever brand they sell/sold.
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On 12/06/2019 20:01, alan_m wrote:

It may have been Toolsatan (in my area TS and SF are next door to one another)
https://www.toolstation.com/viva-slinky-fit-flexible-pan-connector/p90210
Longer one (that I purchased first and was too long)
https://www.toolstation.com/flexible-pan-connector/p44832
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On Wednesday, 12 June 2019 19:17:55 UTC+1, DerbyBorn wrote:

Yes, boil the kettle & plunge it in. Up & down it a bit to get more hot water inside. You get very little open time when it's lifted out, have to have everything ready set up & move quick.
I made a sidestep/chicane type arrangement. Mould was 2 strips of wood screwed down onto wood base. one part of the pipe was pushed against one side, the other bit against the other side to make the chicane/sidestep/etc. Hold it in place until cold.
NT
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In article <f1562551-4d61-4d98-b8af-57e0e2ea5e36

Wouldn't it be easier to block one end and empty the kettle into the other end?
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Terry Casey wrote:

Or pour in hot sand, give it some support while bending/moulding?
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On Thursday, 13 June 2019 10:34:34 UTC+1, Andy Burns wrote:

only heats the inside so no use you'd need a big kettle to pour for 1 minute and what a pain compared to bunging the pipe in the kettle

sand gives you no temperature regulation only heats the inside and the last thing the pipe needs is support. If you heat it to the point where it does, ie above boiling, the result's misshapen.
NT
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Google "JOLLYFLEX waste pipe"...
I have a bit (in 1 1/4") under a sink that's exposed to frost. Bend to siphon shape in summer, bend straight in winter -- has worked leak-free for over 15 years.
It will go brittle outside where exposed to direct sunlight/UV, and fail within a decade or so.
Thomas Prufer
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