Plasterboarding a Ceiling

[Jim]

I need to replace the ceiling in our kitchen. Looking at the Wickes site they have various plasterboards but with different names, baseboard, wallboard, plasterboard etc. Apart from the name and sizes is there any practical difference between these products and any I shouldn't use.

to do this as a one man job so was looking at the 9.5mm, smaller sized sheets to keep the weight down and for easier transportation. Room is only about 10' x 8' so cost not a factor really.

Thanks

Jim

[ALex]

you can use 2 x 1 " timber battens screwed through to the joists at 400 mm centers,

use 12,5mm plasterboard 1800 x 900 is a convienent size for less experienced touse,

screwed not nailed to battens if you are skimming with plaster

[John Rumm]

Since it is a kitchen I would suggest using the thicker 12.7mm stuff in the interests of fire protection. Since you are skimming it then square edge boards will be fine. If you make yourself a deadman prop then even the larger sheets are not too difficult to handle.

Screw the boards using proper drywall screws and the appropriate shrouded bit on your drill. Tape the joints with the fibreglass scrim tape before plastering.

[Donwill]

In a couple of months I also need to re plasterboard my lounge ceiling and for obvious reasons I would prefer not to take the existing cruddy plasterboard out. Am I right in assuming that your proposal for Jim is to batten over (actually under:-)) the existing old plasterboard and then screw on the new plasterboard leaving a 1 inch air gap between it and the old? If this is the case it would very much simplify my job. Regards Don

[Donwill]

"appropriate Shrouded Bit"? What is it please? Don

[chris French]

In message , Donwill writes

I overboard some ceilings in my old house (old lath and plaster) I just screwed it straight through the old ceiling into the joists. Didn't bother about battens

[Bob Mannix]

Ditto - find out where the joists are first and felt pen their centre lines - makes it much easier! Use longer screws or nails

[John Rumm]

shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the screw set to just the right depth. Hence you can spin the screws in at a high speed and the bit will ensure you don't over drive them.

[Jim]

> The shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the

Thanks for the tip about the shroud driver, I'll stick that on the Screwfix order. Will the 3.5mm x 38mm Screwfix drywall screws be OK or should I go longer

of interest what's the alternative (if any) to skimming a ceiling. I've never tackled anything bigger than a small patch so would have to get a plasterer in for the work, if this could be avoided so much the better.

Cheers

Jim

[Andrew Gabriel]

IIRC, that's what I just used on a stud wall.

You could use bevel-edged board and fill the join with filler. It doesn't look as good as (good) plastering though.

[John Rumm]

half inch board directly onto joists 25mm is enough. If you are going through another layer as well then 38 sounds good.

Using taper edge board with scrim and filled joints. Slightly easier to do, but requires some sanding to get the final finish. If done well it can look very good (pretty much standard practice for shop fitting these days).

[Donwill]

> The shroud makes sure the screwdriver disengages from the bit with the

Many thanks John Don