I have plasterboarded my ceiling with the 4 or 5 mm stuff. It is
screwed onto battons I had attached to the existing ceiling. It is
fine in most places, however at its worst parts you can push it in and
it bends in. Will I need to redo the whole thing with the thicker
plasterboard? Or will the skim coat a plasterer will apply be OK? The
ceiling is fairly high and in a bedroom so I dont expect many people
to be pushing and prodding it.
Thanks in advance
Learn something all the time! Didn't even know one could get 4-5
mm plasterboard (roughly quarter inch?). Thirty years ago, here,
the most commonly used (residentially) was three eighths (9mm).
Now half inch (12mm) is standard for just about everything, cos
of 'fire rating'! Ceilings usually strapped every 12 inches but
occasionally every 16 inches.
Rather than take down the existing could James just put up
another layer of 4-5 mm (or perhaps better, 9mm.) or would it
sag? I gues it would need about 5 to 8 sheets to do typical room
ceiling? What would that cost?
Wow !!! 4 or 5 mm thick ? You've been duped. That's not plaster board,
it's thick wall paper. The most common today is 12 mm thick, and for a
ceiling to be fire retardant if it has a dwelling above, it needs two layers
of the stuff.
Why did you put battens across the joists ? The plaster board would have
been easier fixed to the joists themselves with noggins (dwangs) put in
between the joists at the ends of board.
Sorry to say but, to me it sounds as though it is all wrong and needs doing
I knew I had it somewhere:
This shows an older method of fixing with wide head nails, but today you can
get drylining screws and a drill bit attachment that does the job in half
the time. Hire one.
It is also advisable to have someone hold the other end of the board while
you make the fixings or make a brace from a long enough length of timber
with a wide cross member on the top to jam under the board at one end while
you do the fixing at the other.
As I said in my first reply. If there is a dwelling above you, then you
need to fix two layers of 9 mm board to make it fire retardant enough for
them to be able to escape from danger when they've just woken up out of a
So good luck with it, and I you don't have to much hassle with it.
I did my first ceiling at a friends house, he's called Warren and just about
knows how to bang a nail so I get a LOT of pratice at his house before I do
mine. After strugling to nail up the plasterboard I sent him off to Wickes
to buy some dry lining screws and it went up in no time at all. What I
really want is one of these http://tinyurl.com/g0er but I don't think SWMBO
will give budgetry approval so I just hire one and have a few days fun
That's not to bad a price for someone who'd use it everyday, but it's just
outside my price range for the occasional bit of lining work. Wonder if its
handy for fixing back boxes, brackets and light fittings (?)
jameswilson email@example.com (James W) wrote in message
I plasterboarded our bedroom ceiling at the weekend. I used 12mm as
the gaps between the battons I used was about 18inch on average and I
didnt want any sagging.
The chap at Travis Perkins said 9mm would be fine in 12inch centre
As for your problem - you could unscrew the plasterboard you have put
up (assuming you havent filled the joints yet) and put some more
battons up. Then reattach the plasterboard. That would reduce the
chnace of sagging and would be cheaper than new plasterboard.
Sounds like a recipe for disaster (collapsing ceilings, anyway).
The big trouble with screwing PB onto ceilings is that in a lot
of cases the operator over-tightens the screw, so the head pops
through the outer layer. I generally find a better job is done
by anyone 1/2 competent using nails, and quicker!
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com
Yeah, but they were probably 'pros'.... :-)
I've screwed up plasterboard on three ceiling's in this house I won't
say that no screws were screwed in to far, but it would certainly only
be the odd one. My ceilings are fine.
I find it quite easy with a cordless driver, once it's set on
appropriate torque setting to set the screws just right.
There are easy ways of buggering up most jobs, just because some people
are to incompetent/ or ignorant to do a job properly does not mean there
is anything wrong with a particular technique.
I find screwing easier and just as quick, In fact doing the job single
handily it's much easier as I can screw in with one hand
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