Too hot will degrade the solder and you'll get fragile (likely to fail randomly) joint. That's true of electronics soldering, I don't have any reason to believe it's not the case here.
Can't go wrong, except get a messy joint ;->
Timbo
Strangely enough the little camping gaz torches don't flare, as long as let the nozzle heat up properly before turning them upside down, they also have a nice wide base so don't fall over easily. Ive also lost the small nozzle for the bottle torch, next size up is fine upto 28mm pipe but a bit ifffy underfloor. I was really just trying to say to the OP that you don't need that much heat to make a good solder join.
I know this is probably a little unconventional, but I use a Black and Decker hot air paint stripper with soldering attachment. This is a curved metal plate that attaches to the heat gun (like the heat spreaders for paint stripping) and fits around the back of the pipe.
I use presoldered fittings, clean and flux the joint, then put heat gun on its high setting, and just wait until I can see the solder flow visible in the joint.
You can also touch the copper pipe with the attachment, so it can provide support when needed.
No naked flame, so you can use it pretty much anywhere without too much worry.
It's a little slow sometimes, but I've never had a leak.
Never tried it on 28mm, but works fine on 15 and 22.
Cheers,
Rick
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:
Either type will work fine if you solder
Absolutely. IMO the main reson for endfeed.
Now can you sort out my phobia about using one that requires the solder to flow vertically upward?
mike
They're called capillary fittings for a good reason?
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