Pipe leak - what to do?

[meow2222]

Hi everyone

I dont know what to do with a leaking pipe. Its a soldered joint, but theres no way to drain it, so I cant think how to unsolder it. Both feed and tap are at least 2' upwards of the bad joint. Drilling a tiny hole in the Cu then solder patching it, am not convinced the solder would be strong enough.

Also the access space is tight and theres a plastic waste pipe there too, so I wont get free play with the blow j. Oh, and a plastic bath too.

And of course the pipe looks somewhat corroded, so cutting the tee then rejoining with compression is likely to fail. Such joy. Any hints apprecated! Well, those relating to pipes.

NT

[PeTe33]

fernox LSX wrapped round with some form of secure binding... um... Self amalgamating tape perhaps ?

I have done a few impossible situations with that remarkable stuff, though it's always been on CH side rather than mains pressure, but once it's cured and supported I'd be surprised if it leaks.

What have you got to lose really.

:¬)

[Lobster]

Can't quite visualise the situation - this is a joint somewhere under a bath? Where does the offending pipe go from/to, and what is the joint doing?

Can you cut the joint out, and replace a section, maybe involving a pushfit repair kit:

you're trying to avoid having to de-install lots of stuff like bathtubs, or you could simply replace as much pipework as necessary

- however, if the existing pipework is corroded as you say, isn't that saying there are more leaks in the offing, and it wants sorting properly and pronto?

David

[Sparks]

You say you cant drain it, can you turn the water off to it?

If so, can you then cut offending joint out, then use one of these?

[Phil L]

Turn off the mains. Drain down the system by turning on all other taps etc plus flush toilets etc, this /should/ leave just the small section full of water. Turn on the tap that it feeds and blow down it...if that fails, get a piece of earth sleeving (or any flexible small tubing) and feed it down the tap and suck the water out - there can't be more than a pint or two of water in there...any small residues will evapourate with the torch.

HTH

[meow2222]

From: Pet

ooh, that looks easy, if its ok on mains pressure. Hard to believe it is, but maybe so.

well, most of the ground floor stuff due to a flood... :)

From: Sparks

I hope so... didnt succeed last time though. Not gonna be happy if I cant.

From: Lobster

Yes, its the cold feed under a bath. The leaky tee joins feed with L shaped tap supply with outgoing feed.

perhaps I'll have to, but access doesnt look good.

not sure theres enough access, we'll see tomorrow

From: Phil L

clever, ty.

OK, now I've got some options. Thanks everyone. If my PC survives immersion I'll let you know how it all went.

NT

[meow2222]

ok there isnt enough access to cut the tee out cleanly, nor to replace one of the pipes it feeds. The tap is almost seized, so I reckon the stress from that caused it. Going to fix the tap then clean and lsx the pipe, and see what happens.

thanks, NT

[Gav]

you could turn the water off in the road, i did but forgot to warn neibour. he was most supprised when he had no water. then you could replace as much as possible of the corroded pipe and fix the pipe in a better location

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Provided you can turn the water supply off, any pipe may be drained.

By the sound of it you'd be best to cut before the leak and replace everything after it rather than mess about - or at least to where you can get easier access. You can get blankets to prevent heat damaging plastic pipes etc when you use a blowlamp, or ceramic tiles do a pretty good job if you've got some lying around.

[meow2222]

I may have to. Havent found any appropriate cover though, but will look again if cant turn main stopcock off.

there really isnt a better location.

thanks, NT

[meow2222]

Since I'm a rank hamateur plumber, I dont know how, except by inserting an earth sleeve down the tap and sucking it up. I've got some sleeving, but where is another matter.

I got busy doing something else today so havent done it yet.

inadequate access. If I had no other option I'd cut it all out, but it'd be difficult and slow going. I've decided to try an epoxy & fibreglass external repair first. Am assured they do work, despite my doubts. Its mains pressure.

handy hint, ta. I'm all out of metal sheet, which is what I'd usually use.

NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

If you can get a pipe cutter to it, push on fittings are the easiest to use in a tight space, provide the outer surface is free from corrosion.

A wet soldering heat mat will protect any plastic when soldering.

Best of all though is to take the bull by the horns, and go even further backwards from the leak to where you CAN make a good connection.

Even if it means using flexi plastic pipe to redo..this is often easier to pull into tight spaces through walls etc.

[The Natural Philosopher]

The biggest problem with this is getting thee pipe dry and keeping it dry.

And cleaning off corrosion.

I HAVE made it work..though. Car body filler or 'liquid metal' (Halfords is your friend) and glass cloth bandaged around will do it. but NOT if its constantly weeping as you do it.

No. the mats are phenomenal. cheap as chips..you can use have two, the top one will be red hot, the bottom one will not even be hot enough to burn you.