Pillar drill problems.

[mark]

I bought a second hand pillar drill, which appeared fine at the time. It is a Sealey SDM90.

It has a 3 spoke handle which attaches to the splined drive pinion/shaft. However the handle rotates around the drive pinion when the drill bit contacts the work. Appears to be ok under no load.

Have been on to Sealeys tech dept. It is missing a small pin which they can no longer get hold of.

Here is a link to a photo which shows the problem.

It is not a morse taper. Hole goes through the end of the spline. There is no corresponding hole in the hub of the handle.

mark

[Andrew Gabriel]

Is that a blind hole in the shaft? I was wondering if it had a spring loaded pin or ball which engages with an internal blind hole inside the socket? Otherwise, I'm struggling to see how it was meant to work.

Another option might be to ignore that, and hammer it together with something like a piece of paper to jam the two pieces together.

[Jeremy Nicoll - news posts]

Am I being thick? What's to stop you drilling one? Or is the idea of having some bolt or whatever pass through the spline and hub too ugly?

Temporarily you could use something other than the three-spoke handle to control the pinion/spline assembly and make the drill usable.

[Nightjar]

You should be able to get a roll pin to fit, although you will probably need to buy a pack to get just the one you want. For example:

Colin Bignell

[mark]

Need a pillar drill!

Or is the idea of

That is an option but not my first choice. There is a sort of collar, not shown which fits over this joint which is marked, to make a depth gauge. I would have to lose that to accomodate a bolt

Agreed.

mark

[Nightjar]

Just noticed you say there in no corresponding hole in the handle. If so, it is probably either not the original handle or the pin has sheared and part of it is left in the handle hub. In the first case, you can drill a hole for the pin, although, presumably, not using the pillar drill. In the second, locate the stub of the pin and knock it out.

Colin Bignell

[mark]

It goes right through.

The socket is parallel and smooth inside. No indents. I think if it did have indents to acommodate a sprung loaded pin it would be tricky to assemble and nigh impossible to dismantle.

Me too!

I will try that with thin foil. The parts fit together very snugly so much so that there is a 'pop' when pulled apart. If there's no room for foil I'll try super glue.

Thanks

mark

[michael adams]

While there's no hole visible on the outside, there must presumably be a hole somwhere on the inside surface for the missing pin to engage with.

Other than drilling a hole through both sides of the hub to accomodate a nut and bolt, all that's needed is a short length of compression spring (ebay) and a pin of appropriate length and diameter so you can compress the spring and the pin sufficient to slide the hub over the shaft until the pin goes into the hole.

The only downside being that disassembly would be a lot more difficult if not impossible.

michael adams

...

[Roger Mills]

The lack of a working pillar drill?

[newshound]

And/or heavy duty loctite. I'm with Colin, the handle is probably not original. Roll pin is perhaps the council of perfection.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Reminds me when a wire came unsoldered in my soldering iron...

(I used a screwdriver heated up on the stove.)

[Jim K]

given the handle is likely a 3rd party one, would the depth gauge actually be worth saving (IOW if it went together as you want, would it actually "work"?)

Jim K

[Roger Mills]

Yes, a roll pin would be best. If it's a tight fit in the shaft so as to stay put (the hole in the handle can be clearance) and of a suitable length, it can be driven in far enough not to stick out and get in the way of a depth gauge like a bolt and nut would.

[mark]

I would find it difficult to believe that the handle is anything but original. It all looks the same age, chrome finish and fits together perfectly.

Here is a link to a photo showing the depth gauge fitted. It can be adjusted so you can drill multiple holes all the same depth without over or under drilling so worth keeping I think. Also shows shaft hole and smooth socket.

mark

[Jeremy Nicoll - news posts]

If it comes to that, a bolt (or rod) that's shorter than the diameter of the present hub will do, if the depth-thing collar that then fits around the whole thing would stop the bolt/rod from falling out.

[F Murtz]

Just drill the hole through the handle and put a roll pin in as already suggested shorten slightly below surface so that depth gauge fits over.

[Nightjar]

You could try this company's claim to have the largest range of Sealey spares:

Even if they don't have the part, they might have an exploded view that shows what you need.

Colin Bignell

[Baz]

I reckon that the Pin was fitted before it was plated. Most probably tack welded or hammered in and smoothed over. And it sheared off inside. Have a good feel around inside, be careful of splinters. Or Clean up the outside and have a better look.

Baz

[mark]

Thanks Colin Will look at that site. Roll pin looks like the way to go.

The parts drawing from Sealey shows it but doesn't come close to being helpful: Part No 17

mark

[mark]

I will, thanks.

Mark