I don't actually have space for more than 2 appliances in my kitchen - dishwasher and fridge. But I really like a small kitchen (3mx2.8m) - but then there's only me most of the time, and I know many don't. Just easier to clean and get things done.
Don't know - maybe luck, operating just within range, or when the temperature dips the compressor cuts out, but not catastrophically (to the freezer/refridgerant or the food)?
If it is metal, it's not magnetic - looks to be plastic.
I find that using a vacuum sealing device, food doesn't get freezer burn.
Yes, why should frost-free (periodic heating of the cooling element to melt any ice that has formed on it) make freezer burn any more or less likely? Isn't freezer burn dependent on how much (if any) moisture gets in from the outside, and therefore on how good the door seal is? And on how often you open the door, letting in fresh, moist air from the room.
One of our freezers uses about 50 W when the motor is running (and near enough zero when it's not), but every few days there is a sudden burst when about 700 W is used for a couple of minutes. I presume that's when frost-free has kicked in to melt any ice on the cooling element. It's amazing what you can tell from a smartplug that reports power consumption every few seconds, to be logged and graphed by a suitable utility on a PC.
My mate has a kitchen about the same size as our ground floor and I think it's pointless. It doesn't bother them as they have a housekeeper that does most the cooking. ;-)
Yup. When helping him with network stuff round the house I've walked miles and found it all tiring. Again, they don't actually keep it clean themselves ...
Yeah, you maybe right. I was just wondering if it was just marketing?
Could be ally but if it looks plastic it probably is (and thanks for looking). I picked up a Which think that referenced those fridges / freezers that had plastic backs and marked them down for their additional fire risk (over those with metal backs, however unlikely the overall risk etc).
May I ask what model your Beko is Rob (when you go down their next etc).
Cheers, T i m
'Needs must'. ;-)
Not necessarily. As mentioned elsewhere our old Zanussi under counter freezer has a little plastic guide about the size of a playing card that clips into a slot in the lower front edge and the design of the innards of the freezer are such that any melt-water that escapes any containers and runs out the bottom is guided to the middle, out over the edge and rather than being drawn underneath by capillary action, is drawn onto said 'chute' and then can be guided into a suitable container, like a large dinner tray or shallow baking tray.
This allows you to simply sponge it out and into a bucket etc ... no need for towels or wet floors. With aid of a hot air gun the whole thing takes about 30 minutes, even when it's quite bad (if you heat the right bits the ice tends to fall off in large chunks that can be lifted away, rather than melting etc).
I wonder how many people have freezers with such a feature but have 'lost' their chute, were never given it (if the appliance was installed for them) or still have it but simply don't know what it's for?
<snip>Cheers, T im
The Liebherr seem to have the higher(est) energy ratings (good) and look like they have substantial levels of insulation and other thermal designs?
Ok. I guess that may be a function of how the foods are packaged? eg, some things like burgers come in simple cardboard boxes with flaps at the ends and aren't airtight?
;-)
The Liebherr offerings seem to have some of the lowest running costs (which are generally relatively low, compared with WM or DW etc) but are often also some of the most expensive so would need to be in use for some time before you broke even.
It's not even that they would be the sort of thing that would have their energy 'rationed', if it ever came to that. ;-)
It's a:
Ah, thanks Rob.
That link also confirms my other question re the large 'Flame retardant back' banner. ;-)
Looking at the picture ... something that comes to mind is that our under counter Zanussi fridge and (separate) freezer, whilst not from the same era, have actual handles on the door edge(s), rather than the fingertip type along the top (as an aside, look like they would catch all sorts of debris?).
Ironically, because I was hoping to put an 'under counter' unit 'on' a std worktop height surface, the 'handle' would end up being quite high up? No issue for me but wouldn't be as obvious / easy for the Mrs (as a real handle).
Nothing stopping me 3D printing a suitable handle and sticking it on the edge with some suitably strong double sided tape etc.
Or fitting the door on upside down, placing the handle underneath, as it might be on a combined upright fridge / freezer (assuming any door molding / seal / hinge-mountings would allow).
Cheers, T i m
Yep, self-consciously so :-)
Not noticed TBH - my fridge is similar.
Yes, mine's on a tumble dryer - they're quite light.
Yes - you'd need to check quite carefully.
Ah, interesting, and would you say opening the door with the handle that high is easy / intuitive? Some magnet catch / seals are very 'catchy' ... no movement of the freezer itself (even when stood on a TD) when you open it?
Noted, not easy to do pre purchase.
That said, if our local whitegoods supplier is still there, that's the sort if thing they would let me try (along with running up all the suction cleaners to measure their sound levels). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
It'd be far too clumsy to use the handle at that height - even for a tall person. I just pull the door open from the edge - it's quite a soft rubbery open/close. Never even thought about it before you mentioned it!
I felt it might be.
The only thing with that is for the non-regulars, it's a 'Norman door' ... and it's the same with those top / bottom handles for that matter, unless you are looking out for the hinges (which are also sometimes disguised behind dummy covers).
Maybe it's because I don't bite my fingernails and have damaged a few trying to pull the wrong side of a (Norman) door open. ;-(
I might be tempted to print and fit something like this (but only attach it with double sided tape (so it can be removed cleanly)):
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