OK - how do fix this wooden frame?

Would it be possible for you to use

Their T&Cs are not to my liking in the way that they share information around all their programs.

Cash

On Tuesday 16 July 2013 21:25 wrote in uk.d-i-y:

You don;t need to log in with the link I gave - but if the cookies bother you, hold on...

On Tuesday 16 July 2013 21:29 Tim Watts wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Here's the worst one:

On Tuesday 16 July 2013 21:31 Tim Watts wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I don't think that worked.

Bugger it. Here's a public flickr link - I *know* that works!

FWIW, all the links worked just fine. I don't know how to fix the problem with the frames. I'm going to crawl off and die having visited Google. :(

On Tuesday 16 July 2013 22:01 Richard wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Weird - the tinypic did not work for me...

Back on topic - while looking for Ronseal WoodHardener (which I have used before, or something very similar), I noticed a range fo 2 part wood fillers by Ronseal.

Anyone used them?

I'm not sure if they'd be very easy to deal with the long thin gaps, but they look like a possibility for the lumpy holes.

No, but *very* much cheaper is something like this

which I have just been using on similar gaps

On Tuesday 16 July 2013 22:26 newshound wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Ah - looks interesting - thanks for the link :)

Did you paint or stain it?

Seems a bit odd using _car_ body filler for wood.

Yes I know some old car bits are/were wooden, but I'd have thought that in those circumstances one would want to use real wood for repair/restoration.

I have used a number of two part wood fillers. All have been very good (in reality not that different from car body filler except a more pleasing colour). Good for window repairs that are going to be over painted.

For ones that are to be varnished, I would be more tempted to attack with a multimaster to chop out the rotten sections, and then scarf in new wood (bedded on aforementioned filler).

Everbuild do a wood coloured one that is good and fairly cheap.

Like:

On Wednesday 17 July 2013 03:59 John Rumm wrote in uk.d-i-y:

That's a possible approach - I have some scrap wood that is something semi decent.

On Wednesday 17 July 2013 04:01 John Rumm wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Thanks John, that looks like a good price :)

You are likely on a hiding to nothing. Any repaurs you do will only be temporary. Ideally chuck them out and get some uPVC ones. Save on the heating bill. You can buy and fit your own & avoid a massive bill.

Most of the problem is likely caused by condensation. There's probably a lot of hidden rot too.

On Wednesday 17 July 2013 08:13 harryagain wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Maybe - such is the nature of wood...

Why? I have DG ali units in there (with a thermal break in the frame) which are not far off modern uPVC units for U values. I've already done the calcs.

Seeing as these are load bearing bays and I would insist on rosewood finish uPVC, the cost would be enormous and the payback time probably longer than I will live.

Yes - have done that for a few old windows.

One the outside?

Doesn;t seem to be - poked it...

The Ronseal stuff is mineral-filled polyester too.

I've only ever painted car body filler although you should be able to tint it with a spirit-based wood dye (before adding the hardener).

The point is, provided you are reasonably sure you have prevented further rot this stuff can be used to fill quite large, irregular gaps, and will stick well to the existing wood, and also is easy to shape, particularly before it is fully cured, to fake an existing profile. It lets you make a lasting repair for a fraction of the effort of a proper carpentry fix. If you try to do something similar with "Pollyfilla" type water-based products they don't work because they shrink, crack, and don't stick.

I tried body filler on this type of problem some time back. What with the wood expanding and contracting under atmospheric conditions it fell out fairly quickly.

I had more lasting success letting in new wood and using plenty of gorilla glue (painted properly afterwards to mitigate UV probs)

Also body filler etc took me a lot of time whittling to get to a suitable smooth "paint ready" profile. Wood is somewhat quicker overall.

Jim K