NiMh battery charging.

Or even superfluous.

I found out by just pressing the 2 buttons - quite often a slightly longer press will disclose another function. Pity that it doesn't hold that setting. Just in case you haven't found out, holding in the upper button for a couple of seconds kills the display, almost - still dicernable in a good light but no light for charging at night. I tend to charge overnight, as I won't go out and leave anything on charge, just in case.

Agreed.

Quite ... and why I was asking if anyone knew of a charger that matched the published spec for the batteries (85mA)?

Agreed.

I was just following the specification printed on the cells as I'm sure that's what any supplier would reference if I entered a cycles dispute with them?

eg. It doesn't say 'Initially charge for 85 mA and whatever you like after that ...'?

I was willing to accept that Eneloop / 'Ready to use', low self-discharge cells may be less able to accept a high charge rate compared with 'High power' (but possibly high(er) self discharge) cells, as my intended usage for most these new cells is for low power use (like remote controls, DECT phones, PIR lights etc) but it may not be the case (they may well accept or even prefer (for the reasons stated on your link)), I higher rate than 85mA, for the charger to properly detect -DeltaV.

Cheers, T i m

Yeah, I think I had done / found that previously but didn't 'notice' the practical consequences (I saw the setting change but not the current so just set it back again)..

Yeah.

Funnily enough, yes, I have found that (by experiment) but with the light I was in at the time, couldn't see much at all. I get people turn them off when they have the charger on in their bedroom but that backlight isn't particularly bright and there are plenty of other things on with LED's in our bedroom for it not really notice if I had the charger in there.

I don't like leave things charging overnight because we *are* there and asleep. I will leave some things charging when out (like the YC4000 but typically only on the lowest settings and NiCad / NiMh.

Cheers, T i m

Yawn. Remoron.

Don't need a big lead bunker. Couple of inches of steel would be enough

Not talking about plutonium, Engineering feasibility is not cost related, that is commercial feasibility. Easily solved by throwing other peoples money at it., Cf wind farms, battery banks, electric cars and solar panels, none of which are commercially feasible, and as far as compliance goes, follow wind farm example and rewrite the rules of public health and safety.

You are an Art Student and I claim my £5.

I now hear that not only will you not be allowed to drive a fuel car, but electric cars will be charged by the mile.

So everyone will stay at home and get drip fed propaganda about the world outside.

Not just Scotland.

This is in the bedroom, fairly close to the smoke alarm. Taking 8h+ to recharge AA cells probably isn't too risky.

;-)

Indeed and I make the same decision, along with noting that the spec on the charger explicitly states that it's made out of non combustible plastic etc.

I tested one of the batch of Amazon basics 10A NiMh D cells on my iCharger (in a 3D printed 'high current' holder) the other day the charged it on my Ansmann Energy 16 charger. It didn't seem to want to indicate it was fully charged (theoretically taking at least 10 hours at 1000mA) so I ended up putting it back on the iCharger to see what that would do. It took an hour or so but then indicated it was charged. Putting it back on the Ansmann, it then also indicated it was charged after about an hour. So I'm hoping I just didn't give it enough time and will be interested to see how the Ansmann copes with a batch of 3 (xD's), assuming I ever actually discharge any in normal use. They did all indicate fully charge when I first got them but that was just a top-up. 'Technically' they suggest the highest capacity charger can deal with is 9500mAh.

Along those lines, I came across a old fashioned but new torch the other day (with a top handle and big reflector etc) that used the big square battery 6V with springs (4R25). Looking around it suggested that a similar torch with a xenon lamp would last for 7 hours on such a battery but an LED replacement should last a lot longer. Then I looked into seeing if I could 3D print a clip to take 4 x rechargeable D cells as 1) I have quite a few and 2) using them would be more flexible than the big square battery.

Then I found that such a thing already exists (4 x D to 4R25 converter) and you can sometimes get them with these bigger style torches providing a battery choice option.

That said, the 4R25's can be bought quite cheaply, seem quite powerful (10Ah?), seem to last a long time on the shelf and I've not found and old one that has been flat / dead and leaked yet (but I guess they might).

I've ordered some more 6V LED replacement lamps and with the 180 degree light pattern as these work better in such reflector lamps.

I have a more 'beam' orientated LED in my 4D Maglite as that better suits my usage of it (and you do get some peripheral light in any case).

Cheers, T i m

And answers a question that wasn't asked and doesn't answer the one that was. He/She/It/Xi will go far.

My (very old) charger from jessops (remember them?) Charges AAs @ 150mA and AAAs @ 50mA singles or pairs x 2 PP3 @ 16mA single or pair Max Charging time 15 hrs by Timer Control.

More is not always better.

I do. My Dad used to use them quite a lot.

NiMh and Nicad?

Ok.

Yeah, that's the thing, if you drop the current down you can safely charge for a fixed time with little chance of overcharge and from the link Pamela provided, might be safer than trying to detect the -dV

Oh indeed.

The first electric RC cars we raced at Ally Pally came with a wire wound resistor fixed to a small ally plate to limit the charge current to the 4 x SubC 1.2Ah Nicads. Inevitably someone would 'forget' they had left their batteries on charge and they would overheat, split their cases, melt the plastic / ABS top and bottom trays they sat in before one cell would explode. ;-(

So, I got a folded ally project case, fitted the resistor inside and a clockwork timer (with built in switch) on the top. Connect to a car battery, connect the output to the RC car battery, twist the timer to

Cheers, T i m