My loft boarding experience - hopefully a useful note for someone

Hello

Following on from advice sought here and elsewhere, I went about it thus:

1) Ordered 300 feet of 1 x 1.5" sawn battening to sit along the tops of the existing joists

2) Ordered twenty 8'x2' 22mm tongue-and-groove chipboard panels (heavy duty)

The reason for the battening was so that I could rebate the lengths where necessary to allow for the various bits of twin and earth that were fitted across the original joists - and avoiding notching out the actual joists. I decided on the big loft panels because I reckoned they'd be quicker to lay than the small "B&Q" loftpack boards, and they're 22% thicker (and hence they are stronger).

It took us a day (two people) to lay the battening and notch out with a pull-saw and chisel and rearrange the mains cabling into the channels. It took about a day and a half or two days to lay the loft boards. Where the ends of the loft boards miss the joist (the boards are layed perpendicular to the joists), we used PVA wood glue. I've screwed them (and the battens) down using chipboard screws (twinthread gold screws) and a Makita battery drill/driver which did the whole lot on a single charge.

Last time I did a loft of similar size I used the B&Q packs and although it went OK, I had to cut most of them to size on accout of non-standard joist spacing in that house. That's what made me decide to use the bigger boards - they span more joists per board and they're that much thicker that, when the ends miss a joist, a decent amount of gluing makes those ends adequately self-supporting.

If we ever do it again I shall use the same approach but I might cross-batten instead of parallel batten. Cross battening will implement sufficient clearance for the mains cabling and will also lend strength to the structure by adding a bit of additional support at the board ends.

Reply to
Duncan Di Saudelli
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Cost - about 55 or 60 quid

Cost - about 155-160 quid

Reply to
Duncan Di Saudelli

Can you do that in the UK, then? I'm not sure I could get away with it here in the US - I think "bare" wiring in an "unfinished" attic space is OK, but as soon as flooring goes down the wiring would have to adhere to the electrical code here - which means running it through the joists a certain minimum distance from the edges.

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules Richardson

When I did a similar thing, I cut holes in the flooring big enough for them to sit over the cables where they crossed the joists. That way you can still see them.

Reply to
dennis

Boarded a mate's loft and he didn't want the cables up through the boarding so I marked where all cables ran and all terminations were. Mind, as it was T&G chipboard it's not that easy to get at anything.

Reply to
PeterC

Depends on what you mean by "get away with"... in the sense that if you are boarding your own attic and no one is checking up what you are doing then yes ;-)

According to the building regs, joists can be drilled or notched (there are rules about the maximum size and the positions etc). So in theory you could notch the top, sit a cable in the notch and board over. More sensible operatives would also place a metal nail protection plate over the top of the cable notch, and also mark the top of the board to indicate the cable position.

The latest edition of our wiring regs introduces a requirement for any concealed cables to either be buried >=50mm from the surface, or to be mechanically protected by earthed metal shielding, or for the circuit to be protected by a RCD (aka GFI or GFCI in the US) with a trip threshold of not more than 30mA. Hence one would have to decide if adding boarding constitutes an alteration to the wiring - if you decide that it is, then the new work should comply with the current regs.

(historically lighting circuits were not traditionally protected by RCDs)

Reply to
John Rumm

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