Moving toilet

just moved into bungalow. I want to put a new toilet suite in. The old toilet has a s trap but the hole in the concrete needs to be nearer the wall because of the toilets made nowadays.

I have done this job before at last house because waste went down through the concrete and off to the main sewerage system.

What I have here is a s trap and outside is a waste stack. Am I to assume that it connects somewhere just below the ground... meaning I could just move the new loo nearer to the wall, blocking up the hole and reconnecting to the waste stack with a p trap through the wall. A lot less work.

Do you know what I mean ?

Thanks for any info.

Reply to
MIstatee
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The drain from the WC pan probably goes direct to a manhole, where it meets the drain from the stack. Yes, you could use a P trap pan and tee into the stack if the levels work out OK. You would need to seal the existing drain at both ends with concrete.

What would be even less work though, would be to install a new S trap pan to the old BS 1213 design. These are still available in at least one design -

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model CC1131WH

or they do a bottom outlet WC pan that might work -

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Reply to
Peter Taylor

Thanks for info/links

The levels work out ok. There are no manhole covers to be found anywhere on the property. You say blocking both ends of the outlet. I'd not get away with just blocking the bathroom one then do you think??... obviously making sure it would never colapse and block up the drainage. Steve

Reply to
MIstatee

You really to pack and fill the old outlet pipe with a flanged stopper and concrete to be sure that it doesn't slip down the pipe and cause a blockage. A flanged stopper can be made out of a large plastic drinks bottle filled with sand and silicone sealant to keep the costs down.

Choose a drinks bottle that is the closest to the diameter of the pipe so that you can jam it down the hole until it sticks tightly in the first bend. If you can reach down to fill the gaps around it with silicone sealant then get as much filled in as possible. If you can't reach down the pipe far enough to get silicone in the gaps, then you'll need to jam polythene bags around the bottle and push them in tightly around the bottle.

Fill the remaining space left in the pipework to the floor level with a concrete mixture and not just a sand and cement mix. The concrete should be made with large gravel chippings and a sand cement mixture to stop it crumbling away over the years. The best mixture is a watery gloop of sand and cement which you pour into the pipe, and then fill this with the large gravel chippings so that the sand / cement mixture is forced out of the pipe a bit as the gravel displaces it. A watery mixture is less succeptible to cracking away from the sides of the pipe as it dries out than a drier mix, but it still needs watching to make sure gaps don't form around the edges.

Finding the other end of the original soil outlet and sealing it up the same sort of way would be advisable, but it isn't really neccesary if you make a good air tight seal on the inside of the room to stop the sewer gases from blowing back in to the house. The gases can be explosive remember, even in quite small amounts, so a good sealed pipe is absolutely needed.

Reply to
BigWallop

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