Moving Central Heating Pipe

[Rob Morgan]

I need to move a central heating pipe a few feet and wanted to check that I'd be doing the correct thing if I attempt it myself. The pipe runs from the upstairs boiler, under the bedroom floor and down the gap between the masonry and plasterboard of a dry lined wall to the radiator downstairs. I've attempted to lift the floorboards in the bedroom but unfortunatly, they are 7 foot tongue and groove boards and short of cutting through them, getting them up will be a nightmare (last board installed and skirting board is fitted over the top of it). The alternative I've thought of is to cut a hole in the plasterboard wall downstairs, cut the pipe near the top (will have to be with a hack saw as it will be too close to the masonry to use a pipe cutter), put an elbow joint in and connect pipe off at a 90degree angle to the current position, then another elbow down and another across, join back up to the original pipe at the bottom using another elbow, ie

Current | | | | | |

New | ----- | ----| |

I had planned on using pre-soldered joints to do this and the plasterwork shouldn't be a problem as the work going on which has caused this will hopefully repair it. Obviously, I need to drain the system first, deburr the pipes and clip the pipe to the wall. Will the pipes be dry enough to solder?

The exposed pipe to the radiator is 10mm microbore, but looking at the hot water tank, it's fed by 15mm, so presumably there is a 15-10 converter somewhere down the line, I've assumed this is going to be close to the point at which the microbore exits the wall and joins to the radiator. I assume it's the pipe down from the boiler to the radiator as the valve is on that side of the radiator.

Any problems with this approach? Tips appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[tarquinlinbin]

Its difficult to visualise what is required but i'd say its easier to lift floorboards than hack and repair plasterboards. With the right tools and skills,its easy to lift boards with no damage and replace them so that they are fine,

joe

[andrewpreece]

There is a tool called an electricians skate, for breaking the tongue off T&G, or a tenon saw would work. If the end of a board goes under a skirting board you can get it out by lifting the other end through nearly 90 degrees.

The alternative I've thought of is to cut a hole in the

If the pipe is vertical it will be dry enough to solder once drained.

[Rob Morgan]

Thanks, I've opted for holes in the wall, since I would have to put some in even if I lifted the floorboards and hopefully the builder who's doing the rest of the work will be able to replaster those bits too. A plumber friend of a friend has recommended push fit joints rather than attempting to solder, just in case there's still moisture in the pipes which could cause steam and interfere with the solder.

Thanks again.