I want to mount a towel rail on my sloping tiled wall - that way the
towels will fall away from the the slop and be bale to dry / air nicely.
I intend to use B&Q chromed copper pipe (or brushed nickel) and
appropriate end mounts.
Anyway, how should I go about screwing into the tile, and what type of
rawl plug should I be using ?? The tiles are fixed onto plasterboard
(walls sound hollow when tapped). Should I use the same plasterboard
plugs as I would for normal things, or does the tile being there make a
difference ? Also, what's the best type of drill bit t drill through the
You will need a very sharp pointed masonry dril, or a proper tile drill bit.
Mark and measure where the brackets go, roughly, and on that area, put some
masking tape or insulating tape, or even sellotape, and measure and mark on
the tape where the holes have to be drilled. The tape should stop the drill
bit slipping around to much off the marks and then slowly begin to drill the
holes you need. Going to close to the edge of a tiles is asking for
trouble, so try to keep the holes away from edges.
Ordinary rawlplugs of the correct size for the drill holes should be enough
for the job, bit try to knock them in to just below the surface of the tile
if possilbe. This way, when the screw begins to open out the plug, the
surface of the tile will not be stressed and pop off around it.
Good luck with, and take your time. Go slowly and you'll be OK.
I was sceptical about tile bits, but I couldn't get a masonary bit to
even bite into my bathroom tiles, so I bought one (lot of money from a
shed, but quite cheap as a set from screwfix). Worked very well, and I
had neat holes in my tiles in no time, using only my Bosch 7.2V
A definite case of "the right tool"
I use a very small bit first, with hammer action, then go up top correct
size with no hammer action. You need to use plastic plugs and screws
with short plan sections as teh grip is all around the tile.
A gob of car body filler injected into teh hole before the plug helps in
plasterboard situations - goves more grip to the plug.
You won't get a huge amunt of grip on a sloping surface. If you can near
it, maybe epoxying a wooden plate over the tiles and screwing to that is
forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by 'grip' ?? Are you thinking that
the rawlplug might slip out of the hole over time ? If so, how's about i put a
little loktite on it before tapping it in place ?
Something like that, yes. I have ahd problems with both the plug pulling
out, and th screw pulling out of teh plug, and indeed, tiles pulling off
The ratinale is something like this.
IF teh tiles are laid not on a breeze block or brik or solid patser wll,
but on a sloping pasterboard celing, then ultimately *unless you use
wood up to the studs*, the best strenght achievable will be the
plasterboard strength itself.
Having a tile glued to it spreads the load and stops the plasterboard
tearing at the hole. Thats GOOD. Unless its badly glued.
Howver, there remaisn the problem of teh plug pulling out. Typically
tehg plasterboard is TOTASLLY useless at retainging a plug. at best some
of teh huge and ugly varieties of plasterboard fixing spread the shear
load over a slightly wider area. So you are essentyially relying on teh
til eitself to spread the load. The uissue then cbecomes top fix
securely to a 3mm or os thick tile.
Needless to stay this is not what a 10mm rawlplug does best. ideally you
want it to be a damn tiught fir to start with, and to ballon out to fill
the hole and if possible swell markedly behind the hole. Ijn prtactice
hwat happens is that the screw foes indeed swell the plug, and it splits
into a Y after the hole
This is again a two edged sword. The splitting into teh Y makes it
unlikley the plug will fall out, but completely removes any contact
between the screw shank and the plug apart from teh bit inside the tile
IF you use a screw with a plain shank near teh head, that means there is
no screw thread at all imn the usaeble sectin of the plug. Those screws
go round and round, never tighten and pull out easily.
The two cures suiggested - crews threaded up to teh head, and a gob of
car body filler in teh hile before plug isnertion, cover the two
p[roblems - the fully threaded screw qill =griip the plug at teh tile,
and teh gob ovf body filler should stop teh plug expanding waty from teh
screw behund the tile.
How about using the rawlplug that are designed for plasterboard - the ones with
bits that stick out the side as the screw works through, holding the plug tight
against the inside of the wall ? (screwfix part 58219)
Still have the problem of the screw coming out the plug...
I found they usually need a bigger hole, and don't work that well.
To be honest, these days, if I want a solid job, I cut out a section of
plasterboard, let in a noggin behind it, then stick the plasterboard
back, skim and paint.
Treat it just like fitting to a plain plasterboard wall, as long as
your fitting (rawlplug, whatever) is set in from the tile surface, and
therefore grips the board rather than stressing the tile. If you are
worried about the load pulling the fitting out, then try a more exotic
fitting than a plain rawlplug. I've had good success with the metal
fittings that open out 'wings' to grip the plasterboard from the back,
holding up heavy items like cooker hoods etc.
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