I have a shower curtain pole to put up in the bathroom
I have hollow stud partition walls with 12.5mm thick aquapanel
plasterboard which is then tiled over with 10mm thick tiles on a bed of
So we are looking at 25mm - 26mm thick "wall" before getting through to
Given that this shower curtain is going to get dragged open and shut all
the time, I don't want the wall fixings working loose.
Can anyone recommend a good quality STRONG cavity wall fixing that will
accommodate the thickness of the tile as well as the thickness of the
aquapanel that will hold up the shower curtain rail?
Wing type cavity fittings are out as I don't have a ceramic drill of
sufficient diameter to make a hole large enough to push the wings
through like these here: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p27061 plus
covering up the excessively large hole with the shower curtain rail is
going to be impossible as its of this type of shower curtain:
On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 10:27:02 AM UTC+1, Stephen wrote:
Is it a straight pole ? If you can you fix the pole by its ends, so there is no leverage force or pull-out force, the fixings will not need to be particularly strong (unless someone will be hanging on it).
There's not a lot of force exerted by shower curtains, which is why those spring loaded poles are often sufficient, but obviously a fixing should be as strong as possible.
I'm not sure of the nature of Aquapanel, but you might find drilling a pilot hole and screwing straight into it is strong enough - use a coarse thread screw. I have a generic cement board as my stud wall, and the shower pole fixing is screwed in like that.
Better still, screw into a stud if you are lucky and there is one in the right place !
I'd look at rubber well nuts. Say M5 x 40mm to give lots of squidge in
the cavity - you'd need a 10mm hole.
M4 would need an 8mm hole, but the longest I've seen of these are 30mm.
Of course, you could so it with a 40mm M4 bolt, an 8mm diameter by
10mm long spacer then the 30mm well nut.
Ebay has some, eg item 221302990033
So how many inquests have you attended where touching live shower rails
was the cause of death?
Not that one shouldn't check or be careful, but for some reason I don't
believe you. Death by electrocution (a tautology, I know) is rare,
about 30 per year in the UK. In this small set, electrified shower
rails don't feature often. Yet you've attended 'a few' such inquests.
Thank you for the heads up.
I "personally* know where the electrical cables are as I had taken off
the old plasterboard and replaced it with Aquapanel prior to tiling.
There is just 3 lighting cables between one of the bath corners and the
Incidentally I have RCBOs on *every" circuit (an RCBO is a MCB and RCD
combined) and of course full earth bonding of the copper piepwork
Could you use hollow wall anchors:
or Rawlplug Intersets (lower down on same page)
not sure of hole size but give a secure fixing in cavity walls.
I would recommend hollow wall anchors, you can get them to suit different p
anel thicknesses look for two numbers in the description which indicate the
range of panel thickness, I spotted some that will suit you on SF by Rawlp
lug I think. As you said the spikes on the flange need to be flattened when
used on tiles, done it myself. The one thing to use with the spikes flatte
ned is a setting tool as its the spikes that stop the fixing turning when s
crewing them up. Setting tools are quite cheap and a good investment if you
have many studded walls they cause less damage on the backside of the PB g
iving a more secure fixing.
Bung some glue in the hole and it will harden the surrounding PB and
prevent the fixing from wiggling about and working loose. I have ixed many
things using the plastic plugs that are meant to open as the screw is
tightened. Using builders glue makes a secure fixing. I can appreciate in
your case the back of the board is a long way in - but the board itself may
provide a good fixing for an expanding plug (with the glue)
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