The early spin driers I saw were all narrow machines. The effectiveness
is from a combination of rate of rotation and diameter. Even if they did
spin at 2800, that doesn't make them twice as effective as one spinning
at 1400 but with a much larger diameter.
0.15m radius drum at 2800 gives 2 x 0.15 x pi x 2800 / 60 ~44 m/sec tangential speed.
0.25m radius drum at 1400 gives ~37 m/sec
Translate that to force exerted on a kg of washing, and we get 44^2 /
0.15 = ~13 kN for the small spinner, and 5.4 kN for the large one.
(shows just how strong that drum needs to be - being pulled apart by the
equivalent weight of 1.3 tonnes of washing!)
Very hot water will also shrink most clothes.
I'd also say there's rather a difference in the standard of cleanliness
needed for things you use to cook and eat off etc than clothes.
Or perhaps you also boil the floors etc that you walk on with bare feet?
And the toilet seat? And so on.
*Women like silent men; they think they're listening.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
I have to agree with the general comments here that the OP didn't do his ho
mework properly plus I do wonder what his extended family would have done 6
0 plus years ago before the advent of the domestic washing machine. My mem
ories was that we have survived despite one pair of pants, etc lasting seve
We have a Bosch w/m and a Siemens d/w and they are both cold water only, an
d without going into the full details of the programs the OP (or at least h
is wife!) wanted, it seems that we can do hot, warm and cold washes with lo
ng and short times.
Sorry I don't have any sympathy as we spent time checking out the specs. be
fore we bought and got what "her-indoors" wanted.
The first microprocessor controlled washing machine we bought was a
Hotpoint Quartz model (one of the first such models, afaiwa). This
obviously relied on applying a 5 or 6 second delay after seeing the
motor spindle tacho signal 'dropout' rather than wait a whole minute
or so that the recentish replacement machine does after shutting off
the spin power (blind to whether the drum was still moving, unlike the
That strikes me as a waste of resources. Ignore the tacho signal
completely and just allow 10 times what it actually requires for the
drum to come to a stop in the worst case condition possible - high
speed spin with maximum but precisely balanced load- rather than
intelligently release the door a few seconds after the drum has
stopped or slowed down to a safe speed as that 3 decades old Hotpoint
Quartz model did.
Although we had to call out the service engineer to replace the
controller panel shortly after taking delivery, the only faults I've
had to fix have been replacing the drum bearings (twice!) and the
motor once (adapted from a totally different make of washing machine
dumped in the 'Works' skip :-)), Oh, and I think I renewed the door
rubber seals one time.
The drum uses taper roller bearings where the pre-load such bearings
require is generated by a special aluminium 'crush washer' whereby a
thin shim washer is used when initially tightening the retaining nut
against the shoulder of the spindle, followed by removal of the shim
and re-doing up the nut and prising the tabs of the lock washer
against the flats on the nut.
What I discovered was that it only took a few months for the 'crush
washer' to collapse further and allow the taper rollers the necessary
slack to self destruct. When I fitted the second (or perhaps third)
bearing kit, I kept my eye on this over the next few months and as
soon as it started to show the first hint of slop, refitted that
'preload adjustment shim' to take out the slack.
I wasn't the least bit worried about it being a little tighter than
'optimum' knowing full well that this would be infinitely better than
being not tight enough. In any case, the resulting 15 or so years of
service with this second (or possibly third) set of bearings
vindicated my decision to allow an excess preload condition which I
knew would pretty well resolve itself over the next 6 to 12 months
anyway wherein I'd hoped the 'crush washer' would have most of its
'crushiness' squeezed out (a hope that seems to have been fully
The motor failure led to an interesting repair job. I already had
that 'spare drum motor' to hand when the original failed so I did some
basic testing to see whether it would do as a substitute (absolutely
no issues regarding phyisical fitment - motor mounting holes and
slotted arm designed to take a range of motor bracket variations and
the same multi-V grooved spindle (just a slightly different diameter
to the orginal).
However, the 'new' motor generated 8 pulses per rev versus 6 per rev
on the original. That, plus the slight difference in pulley diameters
meant I had to 'gimmick' the tacho signal to account for both these
factors if I wanted the spin cycle drum speed to remain as per the
1200rpm speed specification of the original.
I modified the controller board by 'dead bug' mounting the required
cmos ttl divider chips into a convenient point in the tacho
conditioning circuit. This neatly overcame the problems presented by
the 'foreign motor', saving me some 84 quid or so, a non-trivial sum
at the time, especially for a repair on a machine that was already old
enough to justify being replaced.
I took pride in keeping such an old yet better machine in a
servicable condition - modern machines at the time were, a good 15
years on, _still_ using that horrible multi-contactor clock driven
switch which had been the expensive downfall of that Hotpoint Quartz's
predecessors (which, BTW, used both hot and cold water supplies -
handy when you've got a gas heated water supply).
The only reason that Hotpoint was finally retired after some 22 years
or so of 'hard labour' was because our eldest daughter offered her
barely used Tricity Bendix to the XYL when she moved house.
Although the controller looked like one of those crappy clock driven
program switches, it was actually microprocessor controlled so I
relented and let SWMBI have her way. I can't recall whether or not the
Hotpoint found a new, and grateful owner. I suspect not since it was a
good 22 years old and despite it still functioning perfectly fine,
it's slightly grubby and worn appearance put us off trying to pass it
on to a deserving cause. Sad to say, I think it simply got taken to
the minicipal dump to join the other discarded white goods.
The thing with the Tricity Bendix is that it too eschews the use of a
hot water connection and, irritatingly, uses a very protracted door
release delay timer (90 seconds istr) rather than the more intelligent
algorithm of that ancient Hotpoint Quartz machine.
It's not just washing machines that seem to have taken 'One step
forward and two steps backward'. it afflicts microwave ovens too.
We just 'retired' an otherwise perfectly servicable 30 litre 700W
Toshiba microprocessor controlled microwave oven some 6 months ago on
account it had developed a little quirk of letting the display fade
out during cooking. The 'quirk' had no other effect than fading,
easily sorted by a kindly slap on its flanks. From my point of view, a
perfectly acceptable foible considering its 20 odd years of unfailing
service but, yet again due to SWMBI's desire for a 'shiny new model'
to replace the old one, this was held over my head as an excuse to
finally retire the Tosh.
So, on good advice from my brother who had recently discovered that
expensive is far from better when it comes to a 700W microwave oven,
we bought the Sainsbury's Stainless Steel Special for 40 quid and got
a fiver refund as a 'goodwill gesture' when we discovered cosmetic
damage to the door and took it back for exchange.
Now, its basic function as a 700W 20 litre microwave is ok, unlike
some of its more dearer brethren (costing 2 to 3 times as much,
according to my brother), it still has a couple of outstanding
The first one being that, apparrently 3 long beeps to announce the
completion of cooking wasn't enough by the gits that designed the
cooking algorithm. It _had_ to be 5 long beeps or not at all .
The other annoyance is that the door is limited by a stop at a mere
90 degree of opening. This would be just about acceptable if, and only
if, it had a detent to lock it there. It hasn't, of course, so it
tands to close in on your left elbow when trying to ease out a hot
plate of food from within it's rather petite confines (don't
under-estimate the benefit of a 30 litre cavity over a 20 litre one).
The old Tosh didn't have a detent either but it did at least open to
120 degrees, ample elbow room for retrieving the food from the, now
seemingly, cavernous cooking cavity.
After proving that the cooking efficiency was only 1 or 2 percent
lower than the brand new SS special from Sainsburies, I did check the
controller board and the connectors in the hope of fixing the fading
display quirk but, to no avail.
I thought I had eliminated a high resistance intermittent connector
contact issue so put it back in pride of place in the kitchen for a
proper trial run to prove that this was the case. Unfortunately, a day
or two later, the 'quirk' returned and I was forced by SWMBI to
restore the SS special to the space in the kitchen formerly reserved
for the Tosh. :-(
 Not realy :-) Luckily, I hardly ever have to interact with the
washing machine so it's not an actual irritation, so much as an
 Three long beeps is annoying enough but, at least if you were
within the presence of such annoyance, the Tosh would cancel the
remaing beeps by use of the aptly named 'cancel' button. Not so for
the SS special. Although this too was possessed of a 'cancel' button,
the git responsible for the firmware, neglected to include 'beep
cancellation' as an integral part of the cancellation function.
The only way to cancel the beeps was to cancel an active cooking
process. You could only shut off the beeps by cancelling before the
current cooking cycle had expired (opening the door or hitting the
cancel button). The beep algorithm quite obviously was based on the
"Magnus Magnuson" principle ("I've started so I'll finish."). With
three beeps, that would have been annoying enough but FIVE beeps was
just 'rubbing salt into the wound' in my view (What was wrong with
just THREE beeps?).
My old Bosch, purchased c2000, had an interlock on the door and I
think all machines did that in those days; its predecessor, purchased
c1983 was the same. My new Bosch, purchased about a month ago, allows
the door to be opened as soon as the cycle finishes, which I think is
now the way of doing things.
(With the new machine I use lower temperatures for longer cycles with,
as yet, no issues identified compared with the old m/c, which I sold
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