I've got an old 7'x4' mirror wardrobe door which I've decided to recycle
in the refurbed bathroom - basically by removing the glass, cutting it
down a bit and hanging it along the complete length of one wall, above
the basin. (A la Property Ladder!)
The actual glass weighs about 25kg. The wall is a freshly re-skimmed
lath-and-plaster job and is pretty solid; I was thinking of sticking the
mirror to the wall with some form of adhesive (probably standing it on
temporary battens screwed to the wall until it's set). Using screw
fixings would be awkward because (a) I haven't got the bottle to drill
holes! and (b) the positioning of the holes relative to where the
supporting studs are would look crap.
So - never having tried this before, is that appropriate for adhesive?
What to use?... not sure there's any particular need for special mirror
adhesive (unless that's best anyway) in that the back face of the mirror
is protected by nylon-thread reinforced plastic film (for safety, from
when it was a wardrobe door).
Should the plaster be treated first? With what?
The weight of your mirror is much lighter than wall tiles covering the
same area. The important issue here is to have plenty of coverage over
the whole area. I would agree that in an ideal situation you would sink
some battons into the wall to have a firm fixing, but understand that
this might not be easy, or desirable in your situation. I have stuck
mirrors with tile adhesive, no nails, mirror adhesive in the past, all
with success. Though in all cases the wall needs to be straight across
the whole length to be fixed. My preferred route, however, is to drill
holes in the corners and fix mechanically to the wall. Glass companies
will drill mirrors so long as they are not made out of safety glass.
(Newark Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)
Nah. Glue works fine. I put up a 3x3 and had trouble getting it off
after half an hour. when SHE said it was too high. Never marry a dwarf.
As it were.;-)
Proper mirror glue is better than the dogs bollocks, mind you I didnt
try licking it...
Use the special mirror glue. It works a treat, and fer chrissakes get
HER to check it before it sets..You have maybe 1/2 hour during which it
needs supporting* before its stuck like shit to a shovel.
* e.g. screw a batten to the wall underneath, leave it 24 hrs, then
remove and make good holes.
But actually, one of the 2 doors is cracked through from top to bottom
courtesy of visting nephews playing hide-and-seek (bless!) so I might be
in luck. Doors are very old (and do have this film reinforcement on the
back), so maybe predate some regulation or other?
Mine are about 15 years and I think were made (or at least re-badged) by
Stanley, they have a greenish colour backing film, and on closer
inspection a sticker that says "ACMETRACK please do not remove" is that
similar to yours?
Do report back on any successful (or failed) attempt at cutting them :-)
Separate but related query: this mirror is in effect going to fit
within an alcove-type space where it is constrained on three out of four
sides. So it needs accurate cutting.
Difficulty is that of course none of the walls are true, so ideally I'd
prepare a paper template before attacking the mirror, but I'm all out of
sheets of paper 7'x3'. Any alternatives to sellotaping together an
entire edition of The Times?!
>> Do report back on any successful (or failed) attempt at cutting
Yes, the stuff cuts fine using score'n snap; it's obviously just
ordinary glass. (You then run down a Stanley knife down the back to cut
the reinforcing film, like cutting plasterboard).
Well The Time did it's stuff: I Blu-tac'ed about 15 sheets to the wall
individually, ran parcel tape down all the joins, then peeled the
composite off the wall, pulling it away from the Blu-tac.
Next follow-up question!
How does a DIY'er achieve the ground edges to a glass pane that you get
on commercially-supplied mirrors? Grinding wheel in an angle grinder
I've been doing enough of that lately, reminds me to buy *more* Stanley
Shudder indeed, my thought was a carborundum stone applied by hand,
google seems to show that is what amateur telescope makers use on their
On Sun, 19 Nov 2006 19:53:09 +0100, Thomas Prufer
|>How does a DIY'er achieve the ground edges to a glass pane that you get |>on commercially-supplied mirrors? Grinding wheel in an angle grinder |><shudder> ?
|Cheap Chinese whetstone, one of those brick-shaped ones, water, and patience.
|Wet'n'dry would also work in a pinch.
Yes a carbourundum stone IME takes the sharp edges off glass and makes it
safe(er) to handle, leaving a rough surface. Wet'n'dry works less well, a
diamond knife sharpener would also work. Non of these will produce the
polished finish you find on commercial mirrors. To get the polished
finish, you would need to follow this up with several grades of polishing
compound, each finer than the last, which is probably not practical in a
Dave Fawthrop <dave hyphenologist co uk> Google Groups is IME the *worst*
method of accessing usenet. GG subscribers would be well advised get a
I have a cheap whetstone, about 5"x2", that I use for glass edges. The coarse
side will leave a rough edge, even ragged if I get impatient and press too much.
It's good for knocking back a point when the score-and-snap's run out, though.
Press too hard, and the edge chips in many tiny scallops.
The fine side will leave a much finer surface, if used gently. It'll be like the
ground glass in a glass stopper, a milky opaque. I wouldn't call it a polished
finish, but with patience, getting a smooth, rounded, milky edge on glass is
It might be possible to get a finer finish use wet'n'dry, but I'd be well out of
patience long before it becomes an issue on a piece of glass that size. It's
easier to scratch the surface with something soft and floppy than with a solid
I'd probably try a selection of coarse abrasives/carbide sanding
plates in a 1/3 sheet orbital sander or maybe a tungsten carbide
sanding plate in a Fein Multimaster. As it involves applying pressure
on the edge of the glass then whatever method you use I'd get some
kevlar protection sleeves for your wrists and forearms, a slip could
Not sure about the most practical DIY approach....
In stained glass we use high-speed coarse diamond grinding 'drums'
(from 1/4" to about 1.5" diameter - mounted vertically in a work table
which allows water to cool the grinding head.
- the grinding head mounts on the spindle and the glass sits flat on
This works well for fine adjustments to the shape of a piece of glass.
A bullnose edge on the glass can be produced using a
'windglass-shaped' grinding drum (think router).
Generally, the endge of the glass is covered by lead or copper foil -
so it is only shaped, rather than polished.....
To smooth & polish a straight edge, like a piece of glass shelving,
some kind of wet-belt sander could be used, with progressively finer
abrasive - but diamond belts don't come cheap....
The other thing to watch out for is that mirrors are notorious for
damage to the silvering during grinding - caused by overheating or
just lack of finesse ! The silvering can chip off, or (worse) become
weakened, so that, over time, the mirror suffers from creeping
'black-edge' - which looks awful....
Hate to say it - but this might just be one of those jobs where your
friendly local glass supply shop can do a better job - and probably
much cheaper than you could buy the tools and abrasives for a
Hope this helps
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