Megaflow Query

About 640+VAT, making it almost identical to the equivalent Megaflo. Closest is the 170 litre at 626+VAT.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle
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What is the maximum kW capacity of the coil? Does it have CH flow and return tappings?

Reply to
IMM

It has to be large enough to prevent boiler cycling.

So a DHW only heat bank.

Reply to
IMM

I'm sure it will be. The boiler modulates to 7kW. I can't see the coil being rated significantly below 15kW.

Indeed.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

One of my sisters completed on her brand new (elec only) Bellway flat on Tueday. I went round last night and was surpirsed to see she has a DHW-only heatbank.

I was surprised because my other sister completed on her brand new (elec only) Bellway flat in July, and she's got a direct Megaflo for her DHW.

Neil

Reply to
Neil Jones

Thanks for that. This is well worth considering.

Reply to
timegoesby
[snipped, and order changed to reverse 'top-posting' (the putting of the reply before the original/earlier posts)]

---8 > > I have a warm air heating system which was there when I moved in

---8 > > I have to have the cylinder changed to an

---8 > > I already have a nice new electric shower installed.

---8 > > Basically it's just 3 sinks which are suffering and so

---8 > > I spoke to a guy today who thought

I've found that monobloc mixer taps (the sort which have just one fixing hole through the sink or basin) especially with ceramic disks (quarter turn) can restrict flow where there's not much pressure. Do you have a washing machine (or connections for one)? If so I suggest that you test the flow at its hot pipe connection (the little tap with the red handle) (after disconnecting the washing machine, natch). If you get a good flow from the washing machine connector the problem is probably with your taps or the flexible hoses, if not then there could be some restriction in the pipework elsewhere.

Yes and no: it will be better, but not as much of a difference as you seem to be describing.

---8 Also, why did you ask why did I have an electric shower installed?

It depends on what sort of hot water cylinder you presently have. If it's a 'Fortic' or similar (which are common in flats) which has a little storage tank built-in above the hot water cylinder (visually: has more of a flat top than a domed one, and a sort of waist about a foot down from the top) then a power shower would not be a good idea for the risk of running the supply dry and ruining the shower pump. If it's not a Fortic type then you should have a separate cold water storage tank: these are usually in the attic in houses.

-- John Stumbles

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Reply to
John Stumbles

If there is a good cold main flow, then not problem. The cold mains will probably fill up faster than the pump can draw-off water with the cold water stage acting as a good buffer. I have fitted a number of these and used a

3/4" ballcock and 22mm colds mains pipe to ensure the cold tank is filled zippo. Then the Fortic acts as brake tank. There are Fortic which have larger cold tank sections in the unit.

The best arrangement is a Fortic heated via a combi and the combi only supplying the shower giving high pressure showers. The water section parts of the combi last longer as the shower is onkly used a few times a day. Excellent flow at all taps and high pressure at the only point where you need it......the shower. A highly cost effective way of having a high pressure shower, high flows to a bath, no tanks in the loft or cylinder in the airing cupboard. It is cheaper than a megaflo setup with problematic high pressure storage, and a heat bank too. The best solution when installing a new system.

Reply to
IMM

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