Mastercove coving

Nov 12, 2006 13 Replies

At least I think that's what it was called - I haven't got the wrapper now..



It is made of polystyrene covered with paper and looks great. I put it up usin their own adhesive and filled any tiny gaps with polyfilla.



I got a crick in the neck doing a perfect job. Not a crack to be seen.



I emulsioned it a tasteful shade, put the furniture back and admired the result. I know self praise is no praise but I was proud of it.



After a number of days tiny cracks appeared at the junction with either the ceiling or wall and at the joints in its length although not (surprisingly) at my beautifully mitred corners.



I am VERY UPSET as I will have to go round and refill all gaps which is a dusty job at the best of times and I thought I had finished :( .



I can only think that the drying paint created a tension in the paper which was sufficient to shorten each 6' length by about 0.5mm and to pull it away from either the ceiling or wall along the length depending on which bond was the stronger.



What are other peoples' experiences?



Any tips?


Whenever I've put up coving any gaps would be filled with a flexible filler including butt joins at corners. This being because of the heat rising to the ceiling and then cooling down when CH/fires are switched off which will contract the coving. You're paint has probably been ok but tempretures have made the paint crack with the coving expanding and contracting.

(surprisingly)

Only ever used the plaster and paper type so can;t comment BUT use caulk wiped in with a damp sponge for the fine cracks and emulsion over.

Aye, just fitted them to the extension to match the rest of the house, I used dot n dab to put em on with, and flexible filler smoothed with a calibrated finger then a go over with a damp cloth. Their own adhesive is bloody expensive compared to a bag of dot n dab and you dont need much D & D to stick em on. B&Q do a pack of em now with pre mitred corners for =A325 ish for 18 metres

Flexible surface filler - stuff in a tube... If i remember - around 1-2 pounds a tube...

Use a caulking gun, squeeze narrow beads along all wall joins and mitres...Wipe with finger to squeeze into gaps then use a wet cloth to wipe over and clear up the excess...Should work fine

Stanley wrote:

Sounds like just what I need. Do you know exactly what they call it? I've had look at the (absolutely horrible) B&Q website, and couldn't find it there.

I've remembered the name - Cove master.

Personally I would not use it again because of the shrinkage problem when painting with emulsion. I have since used the straight polystyrene stuff and acheived superb results which show no signs of cracking.

As the walls of my house are never quite at rightangles I avoid premade corners and cut them at the correct angle using a mitre saw set to the required angle.

are you asking bout the coving or the bonding compound?

If its the bonding compound it's this :

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Just to show you a pic. you'll get it cheaper from ure local builders merchants ( most take public sales) and it will go a LONG way :-) you could keep any spare in an airtight tub for Ron (Later Ron )

Both, actually!

Even if I were to do all the rooms in the house, that amount would _still_ be overkill!

yes, but one bag is about =A34 how much is the adhesive from covemaster I remember seeing it for about =A311

I don't know about Covemaster, but the stuff I've been looking at is about 90 pence per tube. I would expect to need maybe 3? It's not an enormous room. And I wouldn't have the mess of mixing up dusty stuff, and finding a place to store the excess. For a bigger job, the mess and extra work/cleanup would be worth it.

are you asking bout the coving or the bonding compound? ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I don't think there is a problem with the adhesive. The tension set up by the paint would, I think, pull plaster skim off the wall leaving the adhesive intact.

My enquiry is about the shrinkage both lateral and longitudenal. If you veneer wood on one side it will warp unless you apply a veneer to the back also. Should I perhaps have painted the back before sticking it up? That would be a right pain. I did not see any such instruction on the packet.

If I had the energy I would be tempted to take it up with Mastercove. If loads of people jump up and say they have the same problem I might be inspired to contact them as I will be involved in 'repolifillaing' it and then painting it and feel that my additional effort has been caused by failings in their product.

Anybody had shrinkage problems in the coving department?

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No

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