On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 13:07:28 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote (in article ):
By the way - I use a multiplug. thing because I want to place the radiator a bit further down the corridor (and the are no plug sockets nearby).
Plug fuses (BS1362) are available in 1,2,3,5,7,10 and 13 amp ratings.
Adam
Are you paying your own electricity? - electric heaters can be expensive to run all the time, and heating a corridor could be an expensive luxury (heat the rooms you are using and keep doors shut to trap the heat inside). You could consider getting a power meter to measure the electrical consuption of your appliances. You can often get them from DIY places for about a tenner.
Thanks. I didn't know that.
Not the best approach. If a fault in the heater blew the fuse it will probably do the same to the other fuse, the heater will still be not working and the OP is without a fuse for the other appliance. The better approach is to put the suspect fuse into the plug of a known working appliance (providing it's not more than 2.4 kilowatts), if the appliance works then the fuse is OK. For a *brief* test like this with a known good working appliance it won't matter if the fuse has a higher rating than the appliance needs.
But as others have said, the outcome of testing the fuse is irrelevant in this situation. If the heater tripped the circuit breaker then it's almost certainly faulty and needs to be checked by a suitably competent person.
Yeah.That's a better idea .
One slightly strange thing is that the 1A ones are not ASTA certified, so they are strictly speaking a PAT test failure when used in a 13A plug (where BS1362 fuses must also be ASTA certified too).
ASTA = Association of Short-circuit Testing Authorities (I'll bet it's good fun working for them;-)
Where the kinnel do you get 1, 2,7,&10?
Dave,
Normal professional electrical suppliers will carry these.
CPC and TLC list them all
Bob
Well you can find the 7 amp ones in stairlift FCUs.
The rest must come from Maplins etc. I have never bought or fitted a 1, 2, 7 or 10 amp fuse in a plug ever.
Adam
POP and blown fuses now it does not work ,just take it back I would not even bother to check the fuse
Apparently 7A fuses were the correct ones to use for many early colour TVs, to withstand the degaussing surge on switch-on.
There were only 3A and 13A fuses once. And there is only a need for those. The fuse is to protect the flex and not the equipment.
In message , "dennis@home" writes
Rubbish - I have an old plug with a 5A fuse in. Hails from the 50s
There is also a 15A version
update - thanks to you all for your advice
I returned it to the retailer, and exchanged it. Was a bit of a pain in the butt. Had to be done though.
I remember blue 2-A, yellow 10-A (and brown 13-A) fuses from when I was 7 (about 1969) (And white "Empire Made" 13-A fuses with caps that pulled off and no sand inside!) Then blue 3-A ones, then red ones. The fuse once used to also serve to protect the equipment, but not now, as everything should now be OK on a Continental unfused plug on a 16-A circuit. I still wonder why there was never a 6-A fuse, though, to match the new-fangled metric flex!
It's the other way around. All those values always existed, and were required when appliances had longer flexs. They still exist today, but only 3A and 13A are still regarded as standard values, as the others have steadily been dropped (in a large part due to changes to appliance legislation as a result of the open market across Europe, e.g. building an appliance that requires a 7A plug fuse to be safe would now be illegal).
Yes.
On 29 Nov 2008 15:30:52 GMT someone who may be snipped-for-privacy@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote this:-
Fuse manufacturers have put out some wonderful films to promote their wares. I remember one where busbars were made to "explode", they flew off in various directions shedding bits of molten copper in the process. Must have been great fun to make the film.
I hope you saw the advice about how often to use and the expected increase in your leccy bills especially if you are leaving it on all the time as you said you had been . As far as I know these things swallow electricity .. Read you meter before and after and see how much it uses ,in fact watch the speed of the wheel on your meter before you switch the heater on and after and see the difference .
You may be interested in
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.